"Valparaiso makes me think of Algiers," wrote Frank in his note-book, "but I miss the grand archways of the _Boulevard de la République_ and the old castle which once sheltered the Dey and held his treasures. I think of Beyrout, with the Lebanon range in the background, but the Lebanon is dwarfed almost to insignificance by the mighty Andes; I think of Quebec, but the heights of Abraham and the walls of the old-time stronghold of France in America are not faithfully reproduced; and, finally, I remember Gibraltar, nestling at the base of the famous 'Rock.' There is a resemblance to all these places, but when we study Valparaiso in detail we find many points of difference. "Valparaiso has suffered from earthquakes; twice it has been nearly destroyed by them, and there is hardly a week in the year without a shock. For this reason the houses are mostly of one or two stories, especially in the resident portion, and every inhabitant is ready to flee to the open air at a moment's warning. I don't want to become a permanent dweller in this city until earthquakes are done away with." [Illustration: CUSTOMS GUARD-HOUSE, VALPARAISO.] The city has theatres and churches, schools and hospitals, a custom-house and a government palace, great warehouses for the reception and storage of goods, street railways, gas, steam fire-engines, fine shops, poor hotels, and a fairly good police system. It has a large and increasing commerce, and is destined to grow in wealth and grandeur as time goes on, unless the earthquakes make an end of it--a contingency not pleasant to contemplate. It was bombarded by the Spanish fleet in 1866, and, though few lives were lost, there was an immense destruction of property, of which nine tenths belonged to foreign merchants. [Illustration: SPANISH-AMERICAN COSTUMES.] About three o'clock on the afternoon of the day following Frank's arrival the flag on the custom-house signalled the approach of the English steamer. Our young traveller, accompanied by Manuel, engaged a boat, and as the great ship came to her anchorage he was rowed alongside, and exchanged greetings with his old companions and friends. We will now make a flying leap over the Andes, and accompany Dr. Bronson and his nephew in their voyage from Buenos Ayres through the Strait of Magellan. CHAPTER XXIX. STRAIT OF MAGELLAN.--FALKLAND ISLANDS.--A PENGUIN CITY.--SANDY POINT.--HUNTING THE OSTRICH AND GUANACO.--PATAGONIAN GIANTS. The voyage southward from Buenos Ayres was uneventful, as the ocean was calm and the steamer kept well out to sea. There was an agreeable change in the temperature; it became delightfully cool on the day following their departure, and continued so until the coast of Patagonia was sighted, near the entrance of the Strait of Magellan.