"The river at this point," wrote Frank in his journal, "is about a hundred feet wide, and flows with a current so swift that we could hardly stand against it. We waded and swum to the other side; swimming was preferable to wading, as the bottom is composed of sharp stones, which are very disagreeable to walk upon. The guide said the stream was swollen by recent rains, and at least a foot deeper than at its ordinary stage. "There is a ford at this bathing-place, and another higher up. Caravans and single travellers going from the east to the west bank, or _vice versa_, usually pass by one of these fords, and sometimes a large party may be seen here. It is not safe to venture on the other side without a strong guard, as the Arabs are far worse than those between here and Jerusalem, probably because they are not under so much restraint by the government. [Illustration: AN ARAB SKIRMISH IN THE LAND OF MOAB.] "Several explorations have been attempted of the Land of Moab, as the country east of the Jordan is called, but only a few of them have succeeded. In most instances parties have been compelled to return just after crossing the border, and before they had accomplished anything of what they went to see. The Arabs are treacherous, and often violate their promises after they have received heavy backsheesh to permit travellers to go on without disturbance. If you want to know more of this region we advise you to read 'The Land of Moab,' by H. B. Tristram, one of the few travellers who has explored it. Another interesting work on this subject is 'The Desert of the Exodus,' by E. H. Palmer, and don't forget 'The Land and the Book,' which we have already mentioned. "Mr. Tristram tells in his book how narrowly he escaped being robbed, and perhaps murdered, by one of the tribes that roam over the country. It often happens that there is a quarrel between two tribes, and when any parties from one encounter the other there is certain to be bloodshed. If strangers happen to be under the escort of the defeated party they must share its fate, and consequently it is not an easy matter to select a guard that can carry you through safely. "When Mr. Tristram's party started from Hebron there were two tribes from which it was necessary to choose an escort, or rather to whom to pay black-mail. The choice fell upon the Jehalin tribe, and, after a good deal of negotiation, a contract was made and signed with them.