"When we reached the stone platform at the base of the pyramids the driver unharnessed his horses and removed the pole from his carriage. The Arabs gathered about us to assist in making the ascent, and they proved the most persistent and annoying rascals we have yet seen. The hackmen and their kindred at Niagara Falls are politeness itself compared with the Arabs at the pyramids. "There is a sheik or chief of the Arabs, and he expects two shillings from each visitor who ascends the pyramids, and two more if he goes inside. For this sum he furnishes two men to assist you; half a dozen will offer to go, but two are enough. If you are liable to be thirsty, it is well to employ a boy to carry a _gargolet_ (or bottle) of water, and you may also let him carry your overcoat. "There are three pyramids in the group at Gizeh, and they are called respectively, in order of size, the Great, the Second, and the Third. The Great Pyramid is the one usually ascended by visitors; in fact, it is the only one they ascend, as it the highest; and, besides, the ascent of the others is much more dangerous. Perhaps you will wonder why it is so. "When the pyramids were finished, they were covered with a casing of red granite, which was fitted into the steps between the blocks of limestone; the limestone came from the quarries on the other side of the river, but the red granite was brought from Assouan, at the first cataract of the Nile, and was consequently much more costly than the other material. When Cairo was founded and built, much of the stone needed for it was taken from the pyramids, and from the ruins of Memphis; all the granite casing of the First Pyramid was removed, and some of that of the Second, but enough remains on the latter to make the ascent quite difficult. "As soon as a bargain had been made, and the men were selected to accompany us, we started up the north-east corner of the huge pile. The blocks of stone are so large that the ascent is by a series of steps from two to four feet high, rarely less than three feet. Imagine a long stairway, with steps as high as an ordinary dining-table, and remember that you must gain an elevation of four hundred and eighty feet before your journey is ended. The Arabs go ahead of you, indicating the points where you are to put your feet, and pulling you up by the arms. We reached the top in about fifteen minutes, and then the whole crowd of Arabs gave a loud hurrah, and demanded pay for it.