"Beyond Meidoon we passed a good many sugar plantations, and saw the steam rising from the engines that drive the heavy machinery. On the banks of the river there were many _shadoofs_ and _sakkiehs_ at work, and now and then we saw steam-pumps puffing away, to raise water for irrigating the fertile land. Many of the large cultivators find it economical to raise water by steam-power rather than by the old system of hand-labor, though the high price of coal makes steam-pumping very costly. "We are told that no coal is found in Egypt, the entire supply needed for the railway and other modes of consumption being imported from England. The government has spent considerable money in looking for coal, but thus far has found only a few small beds, that will not pay for working. Perhaps they will find some one of these days, and thus save a heavy outlay of money every year for imported coal. Private parties have no inducement to search for this valuable mineral, as the government would immediately take possession of a coal-mine, and if the discoverer ventured to object, he might spend the rest of his life in prison for his impudence." CHAPTER XII. SUGAR PLANTATIONS AND MILLS.--SNAKE-CHARMERS.--SIGHTS AT BENI-HASSAN. The first regular halt of the steamer was at Beni-sooef, where the passengers were allowed two hours by the printed schedule. Of course they went on shore at once, and devoted themselves to sight-seeing until recalled by the whistle. The town has a population of about five thousand, and is the capital of a province of the same name. Frank and Fred strolled through the bazaars, but were disappointed, as there was nothing to be found there which they had not already seen in the bazaars of Cairo. The trade of the place has diminished considerably, and Beni-sooef is of less importance to-day than it was three or four centuries ago. At Minieh, the next halting-place, they had an opportunity to visit a sugar-mill, and eagerly embraced it. Minieh is the centre of the sugar culture in Egypt, and the first sugar-mill in the country was erected here and is still in operation. Of late years some very large mills have been built, employing hundreds of people, and during the height of the season they present a busy scene. The mill visited by our friends was one of the largest. It was so constructed that, from the time the cane enters the crushers till the dry sugar is taken out, there is no lifting or handling of the material, except in a few instances. The machinery is all of French manufacture, and very expensive. A large amount of sugar is manufactured here every year; but there is no profit in the business, partly owing to the great cost of the mills, and partly, it is whispered, in consequence of the frauds of the managers. [Illustration: VIEW ON A SUGAR PLANTATION.]