We remained at our anchorage all night. The watch reported another
storm towards morning, only less violent. At daybreak the sea was
calm, and a boat appeared. Never had I seen and never have I since
seen such a spectacle of destitution, misery and wretchedness. The
boat was a rude affair, propelled by clumsy paddles. In the center
on a stone foundation was a fire, or rather a bed of live coals. The
occupants of the boat were Fuegians, small in stature, badly formed
and only half-clad. It would be difficult to picture people more
inferior and degraded. Some huddled over the fire, and others
stretched out their arms while they muttered something which we
assumed to be a request for food or clothing. The cook threw them
some scraps, and, as we weighed anchor and were off, they called to
us in tones from which we judged that they regarded our bounty as a
scant one.
Lakeum came forward and said to me, “What do you know about these
Fuegians?”
“I read up about them when I was at school. They are of a low order
of intelligence and are treacherous and degraded.”
Lakeum declared, “Let me tell you what an officer in our navy told
me. He said that their vessel once called at the northerly side of
the strait and that the Patagonians, though living close to salt
water, never ventured from shore. What little they knew about
boating pertained to fresh water. They had a circular craft for
crossing shallow streams. They would dump into it whatever was to be
transported; and then a horse was attached and he drew it to the
other side. This officer also said that the Fuegians would cross the
strait, steal anything they could lay their hands on, and, putting
off in their boats with their plunder, would laugh at the
Patagonians standing on the shore and unable to follow them.”
We were a week in making the passage, and a hard week it was, too.
The brief hurricanes came towards night, and the captain made due
preparations, as he had warning of their coming. Fogs came and went;
the air was raw and the desolation and solitude were relieved only
once when we sighted a steamer in the distance. The mere glimpse of
her improved our spirits and gave us courage. At the middle of the
strait there were large mountains at the north, and small hills at
the south. Here, on the Patagonian side, was a white settlement
called Sandy Point, and used by the Chilean Government as a penal
colony. We ran so near shore at this place that we could plainly see
a little group of Patagonians. They were of large structure and
powerfully built. I have since learned that the statement that many
Patagonians are seven feet high is untrue. As we approached the
eastern entrance to the strait, we noticed that the shores were low
and reddish in color, and apparently sandy. Once more in the
Atlantic we began to sing lustily the familiar song “Homeward
Bound”, the first and last stanzas of which are as follows:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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