On a steep slope facing to the northeast, and leading up by several
roads to the broad and thickly populated district of Azabu, Tokio, can
be seen a Japanese gate which is large without being imposing, and
severe without being dignified. Perhaps the peculiar contours of the
land in this unfavored spot, the infelicitous swerve of the road, and an
awkward grading of the hill, make the tall gateway always appear just a
little uneasy. This is the main entrance of the American Legation.
Behind it stands a large structure of wood with office-buildings
attached. The contrast of buildings and gate is not cheerful. Nor is the
large surrounding garden of less amorphous aspect. A wide stretch of
well-kept lawn with no particular outline, disheartening attempts along
the edges at bits of Japanese hill and rock formation, together with
certain unrelated patches of shrub and tree, coexist in a sort of
Eurasian tolerance.
Pretty Gwendolen openly called her present domicile a barn. Mrs. Todd
had begun at once buying blindly and indiscriminately from peddlers,
hawkers, and "curio-men," who infest the official homes of new-comers.
As a result, the high walls of the Legation rooms were being rapidly
covered with atrocious kakémono, some too high, some too low, and all,
from the standpoint of art, utterly vicious. On tables, shelves, and
mantelpieces stood gaudy Japanese vases such as a native rag-picker
could hardly have been persuaded to use (though the price given by Mrs.
Todd for a single article might have educated his son), and various
household utensils, each, to the eye of a Japanese visitor, uttering a
shriek of incongruity.
Should a Japanese lady fill one of her low-ceiled, spacious rooms with
foreign lithographs representing lambs, blue-eyed children, baskets of
fruit, nude women, jockeys, and landscapes, each in a flaring gold
frame, hanging them anywhere from two feet above the matting to the
ceiling line itself,--should she, between these rectangular blasphemies,
suspend bits of foreign underwear, old neckties, garters, belts,
hair-brushes, and egg-beaters, and, to complete the artistic impression,
set about on the floor decorated soup-tureens, water-coolers with
growing plants, and lard-baskets piled high with Japanese cakes,--an
American visitor, entering for the first time, would get much the same
impression that Japanese visitors derived from Mrs. Todd's
drawing-rooms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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