The British Association's Visit to Montreal, 1884 : LettersRayleigh, Clara, Lady
History
The British Association's Visit to Montreal, 1884 : Letters
Rayleigh, Clara, Lady
Canada -- Description and travel; United States -- Description and travel
_Thursday, 25th_.--After breakfast we walked some way, and then
Hedley and I remained at the telegraph station (this is the only source
of information in these parts), and the others went on. An hour or two
later the freight train began to think of starting up the incline, and
Hedley and I got into the cab of the engine. We soon came up with E---,
who joined us there. Some two or three miles further on John and Dick
appeared, wildly gesticulating as they stood on the middle of the line
to try and stop us, but the engineer declared we were now on too steep
an incline, and on we went, much to our dismay, for this entailed thirty
or forty miles walk for rheumatic John and not over-strong Dick. We
reached the top all right, and found ourselves at "Kicking Horse Lake,"
and to our great relief up walked John and Dick. It seems they made a
rush at the train as it passed, and John jumped on an open car all
right--but Dick caught his foot in a sleeper and fell down, but had the
presence of mind to pick himself up very quickly, and caught the last
engine (we had one at each end) and jumped on the cow catcher! I
shuddered to think what _might_ have happened to Dick when he fell,
but he only got a bruise on his knee and a severe injury to his
trousers! We reached Laggan about half-past one, and found our cook
still much of an invalid, with a real negro to assist him! I think the
negroes are much more manly and altogether pleasanter than the
half-breeds, who are mean, discontented, and impertinent when they dare.
This negro was a capital servant, and had lived with his present master
(to whom he was returning after the said master's absence in Europe)
twelve years. We left Laggan at half-past nine, Friday 26th, and had
glorious scenery, most of which we had previously passed in the dark.
Rocky mountains with their snowy tops all about us, and the lovely
yellow and red and purple colouring on their sides. E--- sketched
vigorously and I smudged! We reached Calgarry about five, and found the
Indians in great force, for they had received their treaty money quite
lately, and were arrayed in gorgeous blankets of red and white and blue,
and any number of gold and coloured beads! They are quiet enough, and
don't look at all as if they would venture to scalp us, or make an
oration like "Chincanchooke" with dignified eloquence; the expression of
the elder ones is unpleasant, and you can see at once the results of
even a _little_ education by the brighter and happier countenances
of the boys and girls. I took a lonely walk on the prairie, over which a
strong cold wind was blowing. I saw several people riding in the
distance. We left Calgarry on 27th, Saturday, by a train partly freight,
and consequently it rocked and jumped, and crashed and crunched, and we
could scarcely play whist, or hear each other speak, and when we went to
bed sleep was banished, at least from _my_ eyes. I watched the
stars instead, and the brilliant morning star about three or four
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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