The British Expedition to the CrimeaRussell, William Howard, Sir
History
The British Expedition to the Crimea
Russell, William Howard, Sir
Crimean War, 1853-1856
The villages by the water-side are so close together, that Pera may be
said to extend from Tophané to the forts beyond Bujukderé. The
residences of the pashas, the imperial palaces of the Sultan, and the
retreats of opulence, lined these favoured shores; and as the stranger
passes on, in steamer or caique, he may catch a view of some hoary pasha
or ex-governor sitting cross-legged in his garden or verandah, smoking
away, and each looking so like the other that they might all pass for
brothers. The windows of one portion of these houses are mostly closely
latticed and fastened, but here and there a bright flash of a yellow or
red robe shows the harem is not untenanted. These dwellings succeed each
other the whole length of the Bosphorus, quite as numerously as the
houses on the road from Hyde Park Corner to Hammersmith; and at places
such as Therapia and Bujukderé they are dense enough to form large
villages, provided with hotels, shops, _cafés_, and lodging-houses. The
Turks delight in going up in their caiques to some of these places, and
sitting out on the platforms over the water, while the chibouque or
narghile confers on them a zoophytic happiness; and the greatest object
of Turkish ambition is to enjoy the pleasures of a kiosk on the
Bosphorus. The waters abound in fish, and droves of porpoises and
dolphins disport in myriads on its surface, plashing and playing about,
as with easy roll they cleave their way against its rapid flood, or
gambolling about in the plenitude of their strength and security, till a
sword-fish takes a dig at them, and sets them off curvetting and
snorting like sea-horses. Hawks, kites, buzzards, and sea eagles are
numerous, and large flocks of a kind of gregarious petrel of a dusky
hue, with whitish breasts, called by the French _âmes damneés_, which
are believed never to rest, keep flying up and down close to the water.
Amidst such scenery the expeditionary flotilla began its voyage at
eleven o'clock. It consisted of two steamers for staff officers and
horses, seven steamers for troops and chargers, one for 300 pack horses,
four sailing transports for horse artillery, and two transports for
commissariat animals. Off Tophané, frigates, some of them double-banked,
displayed the red flag with the silver crescent moon and star of the
Ottoman Porte. They were lying idly at rest there, and might have been
much better employed, if not at Kavarna Bay, certainly in cruising about
the Greek Archipelago.
[Sidenote: VARNA.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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