The British Expedition to the CrimeaRussell, William Howard, Sir
History
The British Expedition to the Crimea
Russell, William Howard, Sir
Crimean War, 1853-1856
On the first morning of my visit, as I rode from the camp, a large
snake, about eight feet long and as thick as my arm, wriggled across the
path; my horse plunged violently when he saw him, but the snake went
leisurely and with great difficulty across the sandy road; when he
gained the grass, however, he turned his head round, and darted out a
little spiteful-looking tongue with great quickness. A Turk behind drew
a long barrelled pistol, and was adjusting his aim, when with the
quickness of lightning the snake darted into the thicket, and though
four of us rode our horses through the cover, we could not find him. He
was of a dark green, mottled with white, had a large head of a lighter
hue, and protuberant, bright eyes. Jackals were said to abound, but
probably the wild dogs were mistaken for them. There were traditions in
camp concerning roe deer in the hill forests, and the sportsmen found
out the tracks of wild boars through the neighbouring hills. Huge carp
abounded in the lake; and very fine perch, enormous bream, and pike
might be had for the taking, but tackle, rods and lines were very scarce
in camp. There were no trout in these waters, but perch and pike took
large flies very freely, whenever the angler could get through the weeds
and marshy borders to take a cast for them.
But where are the natives all this time?--come, here is one driving an
araba--let us stop and look at him. He is a stout, well-made, and
handsome man, with finely-shaped features and large dark eyes; but for
all this there is a dull, dejected look about him which rivets the
attention. There is no speculation in the orbs which gaze on you, half
in dread half in wonder; and if there should be a cavass or armed Turk
with you, the poor wretch dare not take his look away for a moment, lest
he should meet the ready lash, or provoke some arbitrary act of
violence. His head is covered with a cap of black sheepskin, with the
wool on, beneath which falls a mass of tangled hair, which unites with
beard, and whisker, and moustache in forming a rugged mat about the
lower part of the face. A jacket made of coarse brown cloth hangs
loosely from the shoulders, leaving visible the breast, burnt almost
black by exposure to the sun. Underneath the jacket is a kind of vest,
which is confined round the waist by several folds of a shawl or sash,
in which are stuck a yataghan or knife, and a reed pipe-stick. The
breeches are made of very rudely-manufactured cloth, wide above and
gathered in at the knee; and the lower part of the leg is protected by
rags, tied round with bits of old string, which put one in mind of the
Italian bandit, _à la_ Wallack, in a state of extreme dilapidation and
poverty.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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