The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
No man dared rebuild the tower that had fallen; not even Alan, or
perhaps he did not want to, being possessed, as we may well believe, by
this Idea. What it was you shall hear, although, to be sure, no words
have any power to picture to those who have not seen it what this great
and original work is like. The fallen tower had been reared, as is
the manner of such central towers, upon four great pillars where nave
and choir and transepts met. Alan cleared the ruins of them away, and
built in their stead a circle of eight stone columns that not only took
in the width of nave and the central alleys and transepts and choir
that had been enclosed by the fallen pillars, but spread out beyond
it to the whole width of nave aisles and the side aisles of choir and
transepts. This group of columns carries arches and a masonry wall
rising in octagonal form above the roofs, and crowned by the timber
structure of the lantern itself. The interior view of this lantern
shows a number of vaulting ribs of timber spreading inwards from these
columns, and supporting a whole maze of open timber-work pierced with
great traceried windows and fretted and carved to wonderment. The
effect is as that of a dome, "the only Gothic dome in the world" as
it has been said. How truly it is a "lantern" may be seen when the
sun shines through the windows and lights up the central space in the
great church below. Puritan fury did much to injure this beautiful
work, and its niches and tabernacles, once filled with Gothic statuary,
are now supplied with modern sculptures, good in intention but a poor
substitute. The modern stained-glass, too, is atrocious.
To fully describe Ely Cathedral in any but an architectural work would
be alike impossible and unprofitable, and it shall not be attempted
here: this giant among English minsters is not easily disposed of. For
it _is_ a giant. Winchester, the longest, measuring from west front to
east wall of its Lady Chapel five hundred and fifty-five feet, is but
eighteen feet longer. Even in that particular, Ely would have excelled
but for the Lady Chapel here being built to one side, instead of at the
end, owing to the necessity that existed for keeping a road open at the
east end of the building.
Like the greater number of English minsters, Ely stands in a grassy
space. A triangular green spreads out in front, with the inevitable
captured Russian gun in the foreground, and the Bishop's Palace on the
right. By turning to the south and passing through an ancient gateway,
once the entrance to the monastery, the so-called "Park" is entered,
the hilly and magnificently wooded southern side of what would in other
cathedral cities be named the "Close," here technically "the College,"
and preserving in that title the memory of the ancient College of
Secular Clergy which ruled sometime in that hundred years between A.D.
870 and 970.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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