The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
They still point out the house where Nelson once went to school; and
two old inns remain, very much as they were in coaching days. In the
Crown yard you may still look up at the windows of the room where the
magistrates were sitting on that day in 1816 when the rioters made them
fly.
Villages on these last twelve miles between Downham and Lynn are
plentiful. No sooner is the little town left behind than the church of
Wimbotsham comes in sight, with that of Stow Bardolph plainly visible
ahead. Both are interesting old buildings, with something of almost
every period of architecture to show the curious. Beyond its church,
and a farmstead or two, Wimbotsham has nothing along the road, but Stow
Bardolph is a village complete in every story-book particular. Here is
the church, and here, beneath a spreading chestnut (or other) tree the
village smithy stands; while opposite are the gates of the Park and the
shady avenue leading up to the Hall where, not Bardolphs nowadays, but
Hares, reside in dignified ease; as may be guessed from the village
inn, the Hare Arms, with its armorial sign and motto, _Non videre, sed
esse_--"not to seem, but to be," the proud boast or noble aspiration of
the family. Almshouses, cottages with pretty gardens, and a very wealth
of noble trees complete the picture of "Stow," as the country-folk
solely know it, turning a bewildered and stupid gaze upon the stranger
who uses the longer title.
The pilgrim through many miles of fen revels in this wooded mile from
Stow Bardolph village to Hogge's Bridge, where the road makes a sharp
bend to the left amid densely overarching trees, commanding a distant
view of Stow Bardolph Hall at the farther end of a long green drive.
South Runcton Church, standing lonely by the road beyond this pretty
scene, is an example of how not to restore a pure Norman building. It
still keeps a very beautiful Norman chancel arch, but the exterior,
plastered to resemble stone, is distressing.
[Illustration: HOGGE'S BRIDGE, STOW BARDOLPH.]
At Setchey, originally situated on a navigable creek of the river
Nar and then named Sedge-hithe, or Seech-hithe--meaning a sedge
and weed-choked harbour--we are come well within the old Dutch
circle of influence over local building design. There are still some
characteristic old Dutch houses at Downham; and Lynn, of course, being
of old a port in closest touch with Holland, is full of queer gables
and quaint architectural details brought over from the Low Countries.
Here at Setchey, too, stands a very Dutch-like old inn--the Lynn Arms.
[Illustration: THE LYNN ARMS, SETCHEY.]
Commons--"Whin Commons" in the local phrase--and the scattered houses
of West Winch, lead on to Hardwick Bridge, where, crossing over the
railway, the broad road bends to the right. There, facing you, is an
ancient Gothic battlemented gatehouse, and beyond it the long broad
street of a populous town: the town of King's Lynn.
XLVI
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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