The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
Reed Hill, to which we now come, passing on the way the hamlets of
Buckland and Chipping, commands the whole of Royston Downs, a tract
of country whose bold, rolling outlines are still impressive, even
though the land be enclosed and brought under cultivation in these
later years. This chalky range is a continuation of the Chiltern Hills,
and gives Royston, lying down below in the deep hollow, a curiously
isolated and remote appearance. Indeed, whether it be the engineering
difficulties in tunnelling these heights, or whether the deterrent
cause lies in rival railway politics, or in its not being worth while
to continue, the branch of the Great Eastern Railway to Buntingford
goes no farther, but comes ingloriously to a terminus in that little
town; while the Great Northern Railway reaches Royston circuitously, by
way of Hitchin and Baldock, and artfully avoids the heights.
A wayside inn--the Red Lion--crowns the summit of Reed Hill,
and looks out upon vast distances. The Red Lion himself, a very
fiercely-whiskered vermilion fellow projecting over the front door
of the house, and looking with an agonised expression of countenance
over his shoulder--_passant regardant_, as the heralds say--hails from
Royston itself, where he occupied a similar position in front of the
old coaching-inn of the same name. Alas! when old coaching days ended
and those of railways dawned, the Red Lion at Royston, ever in the
forefront of coaching affairs in the town, was doomed. The High Street
knows it no more, and the Bull reigns in its stead as the principal
house.
These windy downs, now robbed of much of their wildness of detail, but
losing nothing of their bold outline, long harboured two forms of wild
life not commonly found elsewhere. The Royston Crow, indeed, still
frequents this range of hills; and on some undisturbed slopes of turf
the wandering botanist is even yet rewarded in his Eastertide search
for the _Anemone Pulsatilla_, the Pasque Flower. The Royston Crow, the
_Corvus cornix_ of ornithologists, is a winter visitor from Sweden
and Norway, and is known in other parts of the country as the "hooded
crow." He is distinguished from his cousin corvi by his grey head and
back, giving him an ancient and venerable appearance. He is not a
sociable bird, and refuses to mix with the blackbirds, the thrushes,
and his kindred crows, who, for their part, are content to leave him
alone, and doubtless rejoice when in April he wings his way to northern
latitudes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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