The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
CAMBRIDGE is often criticised because it is not Oxford. As well might
one find fault with a lily because it is not a rose. Criticism of this
kind starts with the belief that it is a worse Oxford, an inferior copy
of the sister University. How false that is, and how entirely Cambridge
is itself in outward appearance and in intellectual aims need not be
insisted upon. It is true that Trumpington Street does not rival "the
High" at Oxford, but it was not built with the object of imitating that
famous academic street; and if indeed the Isis be a more noble stream
than the Cam, Oxford at least has nothing to compare with the Cambridge
"Backs."
"The Backs" are the peculiar glory of Cambridge, and he who has not
seen them has missed much. They are the back parts of those of the
colleges--Queens', King's, Clare, Trinity, and John's--whose courts
and beautiful lawns extend from the main street back to the Cam, that
much-abused and much idealised stream.
"The Cam," says a distinguished member of the University, with a horrid
lack of enthusiasm for the surroundings of Alma Mater, "is scarcely a
river at all; above the town it is a brook; below the town it is little
better than a sewer." Can this, you wonder, be the same as that "Camus,
reverend sire," of the poets; the stream that "went footing slow, His
mantle hairy and his bonnet sedge."
That, undoubtedly, is too severe. Above the town it is a brook that
will at any rate float such craft as Cambridge possesses, and has
shady nooks like "Paradise" and Byron's Pool, where the canoe can be
navigated and bathing of the best may be found; and now that Cambridge
colleges no longer drain into the river, the stream below town does not
deserve that reproach. Everything, it seems, depends upon your outlook.
If you are writing academic odes, for example, like Gray's, you praise
the Cam; if, like Gray again, writing on an unofficial occasion, you
enlarge upon its sluggish pace and its mud. Gray, it will be observed,
could be a dissembling poet. His "Installation Ode," as official in
its way as the courtly lines of a Poet Laureate, pictures Cambridge
delightfully, in the lines he places in the mouth of Milton--
"Ye brown, o'er-arching groves,
That contemplation loves,
Where willowy Camus lingers with delight!
Oft at the blush of dawn
I trod your level lawn--
Oft wooed the gleam of Cynthia, silver bright,
In cloisters dim, far from the haunts of Folly,
With Freedom by my side, and soft-eyed Melancholy."
Few lines in the whole range of our poetry are so beautiful as these.
But Gray's own private and unofficial idea of the Cam was very
different. When he took the gag off his Muse and allowed her to be
frank, we hear of the "rushy Camus," whose
"... Slowly-winding flood
Perpetual draws his humid train of mud."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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