Perhaps, if the present war had not broken out, Canada would never have
realized Newfoundland's second importance to a Greater Britain Overseas
as the outpost sentinel guarding entrance to her waterways. It would
require shorter time to transport troops to Newfoundland than to Suez.
Should Canada ever be attacked, Newfoundland would be a more important
basis than Suez. Two centuries ago, in fact, for two whole centuries,
St. John's Harbor rang to the conflict of warring nations. If ever war
demanded the bottling up and blockading of Canada, the basis for that
embargo would be Newfoundland.
It may as well be acknowledged that Canada's east coast affords few
good land-locked harbors. Newfoundland's deep-sea land-locked harbors
are so numerous you can not count them. Your ship will be coasting
what seems to be a rampart wall of sheer black iron towering up three,
four, six hundred feet flat as if planed, planed by the ice-grind and
storms of a million years beating down from the Pole riding thunderous
and angry seas. You wonder what would happen if a storm caught your
ship between those iron walls and a landward hurricane; and the captain
tells you, when the wind sheers nor'-east, he always beats for open
sea. It isn't the sea he fears. It is these rock ramparts and
saw-tooth reefs sticking up through the lace fret. Suddenly you twist
round a sharp angle of rock like the half closed leaf of a book. You
slip in behind the leaf of rock, and wriggle behind another
angle--"follow the tickles o' water" is, I believe, the term--and there
opens before you a harbor cove, land-locked, rock-walled from sea to
sky, with the fishermen's dories awash on a silver sea, with women in
brightly colored kirtles and top-boots and sunbonnets busy over the
fishing stages drying cod. Dogs and hogs are the only domestic animals
visible. The shore is so rocky that fences are usually little sticks
anchored in stones. There are not even many children; for the children
are off to sea soon as they can don top-boots and handle a line. There
is the store of "the planter" or outfitter--a local merchant, who
supplies schooners on shares for the season and too often holds whole
hamlets in his debt. There is the church. The priest or parson comes
poling out to meet your ship and get his monthly or half-yearly mail,
and there are the little whitewashed cots of the fisher folk. It is a
simpler life than the existence of the habitant of Quebec. It is more
remote from modern stress than the days of the Tudors. On the north
and west shore and in that sea strip of Labrador under Newfoundland's
jurisdiction and known in contradiction to Labrador as The
Labrodor--are whole hamlets of people that have never seen a railroad,
a cow, a horse. They are Devon people, who speak the dialect of Devon
men in Queen Elizabeth's day. You hear such expressions as "enow,"
"forninst," "forby"; and the mental attitude to life is two or three
centuries old.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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