The Capitals of Spanish AmericaCurtis, William Eleroy
History
The Capitals of Spanish America
Curtis, William Eleroy
Capitals (Cities) -- Latin America; Cities and towns -- Latin America; Latin America -- Description and travel
Collectors of orchids are often sent out by European houses. They
establish themselves at the most convenient place, and send out native
runners, paying them from one to thirty cents a plant, according to the
kind and condition of the parasites. They are worth from £5 to £100 in
Europe. All the lower classes work indiscriminately. Indeed, the women
do the heaviest part of the work, carrying over the mountains burdens
equal to those of the men, and one or two children besides. Travellers
are carried over the mountain-passes in “sillas” upon the backs of
natives. These carriers are sure-footed, and capable of great endurance,
usually making better time than mules. The sillas are nothing more than
rude bamboo chairs, fastened to the backs of the silleros by two belts
crossing over the chest and a third passing over the forehead. On a
level road these silleros have a gentle trot that does not jar the
rider, keeping a pace of four miles an hour for half a day. When they
are climbing in the mountains they seldom slip or fall, and very few
accidents ever occur unless they happen to get too much agendiente
(rum). But it requires time and patience to accustom one to human-back
riding, although the natives of the country prefer the silla to the
saddle.
Bogota is half a mile nearer the stars than the summit of Mount
Washington and at this elevation the climate is delightful, although it
is only a few degrees from the equator. The tropical fruits are here
found in abundance, as well as the products of the temperate zones.
The streams are full of fish, and the mountains are full of game; but
nevertheless the people prefer bacon and codfish to the natural luxuries
of their country, and even these cannot be found cooked in any palatable
way. Indians will walk for three days--men and women together, and each
woman usually carrying a child besides--having heavy loads of produce or
long strings of fish upon their backs. The woman will sit all day in the
marketplace peddling off her stuff to customers, while the man is
patronizing the gambling booths; and at night, if there is any money
left, they will both get drunk together, and then spend two or three
more days on the road, walking home with empty pockets.
[Illustration: OVER THE MOUNTAINS IN A “SILLA.”]
There are no hotels worth mentioning in Bogota, only a few _fondas_ (or
restaurants) and _tambos_, at which the peons stop. There are very few
strangers travelling in the country, and they generally carry letters of
introduction, and usually packages, to the acquaintances of their
friends, who entertain them hospitably. The few who visit the county
from the United States stop at a boarding-house kept by a lady from New
Hampshire, whose late husband was engaged in business at Bogota. There
are probably half a dozen other citizens of the United States at the
capital.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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