The Capitals of Spanish AmericaCurtis, William Eleroy
History
The Capitals of Spanish America
Curtis, William Eleroy
Capitals (Cities) -- Latin America; Cities and towns -- Latin America; Latin America -- Description and travel
The bathing arrangements are quite odd. The sharks are so numerous that
it is dangerous to bathe in the surf, and nobody cares to have his legs
bitten off; so a semicircular pen of piling has been erected, at
government expense, reaching about a hundred feet into the sea. Through
this piling the surf beats fiercely. The pen is divided in the centre by
a high wall, one side being for the ladies and the other for the
gentlemen. At the shore end is a miniature castle of stone, likewise
divided into two rooms, with a row of benches around the wall, and hooks
over them on which to hang clothes. Everybody bathes _au naturel_;
bathing-dresses are unknown. You pay five cents for a ticket, and ten
cents for a sheet, which is used as drapery and as a towel, and then
undress. The attendant hands you the sheet when you are stripped, and,
concealing your nakedness with that protection, you climb down the stone
stair-way, hang your sheet over the railing, and plunge in. The water is
glorious, warm and salty, so dense that it will almost bear you on the
surface, and deep enough to swim and dive. When you have had enough of
it, you climb up the stairs, seize your sheet and throw it around you,
and sit on the bench until you are dry enough to resume your clothes.
Some of the more modest ladies, or, they say, those who have no charms
to display, wear in the water a sort of night-dress made of towelling,
but the pretty ones wear nothing but smiles--not even a blush.
During the day everybody stays in-doors after the bathing-hour, which is
about nine o’clock in the morning. The fashionable get up about eight
o’clock, drink a cup of coffee, eat a roll, go to mass, saunter down to
the bath, and return in time to dress for breakfast, the most elaborate
meal of the day, which is served about eleven o’clock. The menu offers
soup, fish, game, steaks, sweetmeats, and wine. Then the people loll
around till dinner, which comes after five o’clock in the afternoon, and
is a repetition of the breakfast, except that roasts are served instead
of steaks. After dinner everybody goes to the grand promenade along the
beach. The band plays, the ladies are gayly dressed, the gentlemen twirl
their canes, admire their small feet in the moonlight, and chatter like
a lot of magpies. The promenading and gossiping are kept up until
midnight, except twice a week, on Thursdays and Sundays, when there is
dancing at the hotel or at some one of the private residences. The
season lasts from October, when the rainy period ends, until April, when
it begins; but families from Caracas and other cities seldom remain at
Macuto more than three or four weeks. The charge at the hotel is four
dollars per day--about three dollars and a quarter in American money. If
some one would build a first-class American hotel here, and provide the
comforts that are found in the States, it would be a paying investment;
and I would not wonder if a subsidy would be paid by the Government.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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