Such as they were, however, these streets, traced with a sort of
descending twist round the hill on which the cathedral stood exalted,
were the only curious by-ways of Chartres worth wandering through.
Here Durtal often succeeded in getting out of himself, in dreaming over
the distressful weariness of these streams, and in ceasing to meditate
on his own qualms, till he presently was tired of constant excursions in
the same quarter of the town, and then he tramped through it in every
direction, trying to find an interest in the sight of time-worn
spots--the grace of Queen Berthe's tower, of Claude Huve's house and
other buildings that have survived the shock of ages; but the enthusiasm
he threw into the study of these relics, spoilt by the foregone
eulogiums of the guides, could not last, and he then fell back on the
churches.
Although the cathedral crushed everything near it, Saint-Pierre, the
ancient Abbey church of a Benedictine monastery, now used as barracks,
deserved a lingering visit for the sake of its splendid windows, the
dwelling-place of Abbots and Bishops who look down with stern eyes,
holding up their croziers. And these windows, damaged by time, were very
singular. Upright, in each lancet-shaped setting of white glass, rose a
sword-blade bereft of its point; and in these square-tipped blades Saint
Benedict and Saint Maur stood lost in thought, with Apostles and Popes,
Prelates and Saints, standing out in robes of flame against the luminous
whiteness of the borders.
Certainly Chartres could show the finest glass windows in the world; and
each century had left its noblest stamp on its sanctuaries: the twelfth,
thirteenth, and even the fifteenth, on the cathedral; the fourteenth on
Saint Pierre; and a few examples--unfortunately broken up and used in a
medley mosaic--of painted glass of the sixteenth century in Saint
Aignan, another church where the vaulted roof had been washed of the
colour of gingerbread speckled with anise-seed, by painters of our own
day.
Durtal got through a few afternoons in these churches; then the charm of
this prolonged study was at an end, and gloom took possession of him,
even worse than before.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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