The Cathedral Towns and Intervening Places of England, Ireland and Scotland:: A Description of Cities, Cathedrals, Lakes, Mountains, Ruins, and Watering-places.Silloway, Thomas W. (Thomas William)
History
The Cathedral Towns and Intervening Places of England, Ireland and Scotland:: A Description of Cities, Cathedrals, Lakes, Mountains, Ruins, and Watering-places.
Silloway, Thomas W. (Thomas William)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
Bridge, and other noted places that centre here.
We are really seeing New London. Streets are newly finished, widened,
and everything is modern; and yet few things exist that appear to be
very new. The smoke subdues all freshness.
England is old. Nature recognizes the fact, and sees to it that an
ancient dignity is not disturbed. Nineteenth-century life has asserted
its existence, but the old, old fog and smoke are great factors in
keeping up the look of dignity that too much new brilliant work might
lower. Buildings are mostly of sandstone; some of brick; no trace of
wood anywhere. Elegant stores are from three to six stories in height.
They vary in architecture as do those of Boston or New York. Think of
such a place, and you have the Westminster part of London. But what of
the abbey itself? Well, much more than we can tell. Had we not seen
grand cathedrals we should probably be more profuse in adjectives in
speaking of this edifice. The structure is large and imposing, but
does not on the exterior give one an impression of vastness or great
antiquity, though it looks anything but modern. It is built of Portland
stone, as are all the old churches of London, including St. Paul's
Cathedral,--a sandstone of considerable hardness and durability, of
a light appearance, approaching white. The general effect is that of
white marble, slightly tinged with blue,--a milk and water hue.
Now comes a qualification which applies to all the old buildings of
Portland stone; and that is, that parts--which are in shadow, or not
exposed to the sun--are either blackened or (as is invariably the case
with many prominent parts of each structure) jet-black, and of a solid
color. Casual examination would suggest soot, or the results of fog
and smoke; but chemical analysis shows it to be a sort of fungi, or
deposit of an animal nature,--the shady situation and porosity of the
stone, aided by the moist atmosphere, being favorable to its growth.
Imagine, then, a large structure, of Gothic architecture, blackened in
entire sections, but mostly white. Picture to your mind a large front
end, with two square towers, projecting but little from the principal
front, and each ending with four turrets, not of great height,--then a
side-wall broken by buttresses and transept,--and you have the exterior
of Westminster Abbey. Next, think of a good-sized Gothic church, of the
same stone, with a square tower at the front end, and this building
set at right angles to the great abbey,--the rear end of the former
not far from the rear end of the abbey. Picture further to yourself a
surrounding iron fence, and a burial-ground, with a graded, gravelly
surface, containing many slabs. Combine these pictures in one, and you
have St. Margaret's, Westminster, the rectorship of which is in the
hands of the celebrated F. W. Farrar, D. D., who is also canon of the
abbey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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