The Cathedral Towns and Intervening Places of England, Ireland and Scotland:: A Description of Cities, Cathedrals, Lakes, Mountains, Ruins, and Watering-places.Silloway, Thomas W. (Thomas William)
History
The Cathedral Towns and Intervening Places of England, Ireland and Scotland:: A Description of Cities, Cathedrals, Lakes, Mountains, Ruins, and Watering-places.
Silloway, Thomas W. (Thomas William)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
Who that travels would risk his reputation as a person of taste, and
not go to Chester? A fare of $1.50 each brought us to this Mecca; for
as the Jews of old must go to Mt. Zion, so must the England-visiting
American go to Chester. First, a few words about the city itself; and
here the brain acts sluggishly, and the pen rebels at the thought of
describing what has been described so many times before. We arrived
after an hour and forty minutes' ride from Liverpool.
Chester is the capital of Cheshire, and is situated on the River Dee,
with a population of 35,701. It was a Roman station known as Deva
Castra. It is nearly surrounded by the river, and the original portion
of the city is encompassed with an ancient wall having low towers at
special points. This wall is in perfect condition, and is the best
specimen of its kind in all England. The foundations are Roman, and
part of this work is visible, and is an item of much interest. The
upper portions, resting on the Roman base, date from the time of Edward
I., who was born at Westminster in 1239, and died 1307; and so the wall
is nearly six hundred years old. It is about eight feet thick at the
top, and varies in thickness at the bottom according to its height,
which, of course, is determined by the irregular surface of the land.
The space enclosed is a parallelogram, planned like all Roman camps,
with a gate or entrance in the middle of each of the four sides, the
main streets intersecting at the centre of the town.
There are at stated intervals stone stairs, leading up to the walk at
the top of the wall, and this is a common promenade for the public, and
more especially for strangers, as from this elevation, a large portion
of the entire city is seen, and the view of the outside scenery is most
enchanting.
There are streets, and a busy population of dwellers on both sides
of the walls. Here, too, is a noble field called Grosvenor Park,
many acres in extent, used as pleasure-grounds for the public, or
as a parade for soldiers, whose barracks are near. As a background,
bordering it, half a mile away, are the grounds of fine mansions,
half embowered with trees. As we pass around to the left, we see the
muddy banks and meadow-like borders of the River Dee. Opposite this,
making the other shore, is a dirty fishing-town, with its principal
street extending up from the river. This is called Sty Lane,--at least
by some people. Here we saw from the walls, where we were walking, a
Hogarthlike nest of dilapidated buildings and destitution. There were
the sights and sounds of a veritable Saturday-night row, in which men,
women, and children were promiscuously mingled. It was a good specimen
of a bad original. After a sight like this, we were inclined to give
Hogarth less credit as an inventor than we had before done; for he had
sights worthy his pencil at hand, without an effort of his imagination.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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