The Cathedrals of Northern FranceMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
The Cathedrals of Northern France
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
The charming tower group of this cathedral is as effective, perhaps, as
any among all the northern churches. The central belfry, albeit of a
base, though pretentious, rococo design, follows no accepted style, but
adds imposingly to the general outline. (Its height is over three
hundred feet.) In this tower, as in the window tracery, the
_fleur-de-lys_, always a sign of the decadent in Gothic style, is to be
seen. The western towers, with their spires, follow the truest pyramidal
form, and, though carrying both pointed and round-arched openings, are
in every way representative of the best work of their period. The
northwesterly tower has an elongated turret, extending from the lower
ranges, which, when seen from a distance over the roof of the nave,
appears as a protuberance not unlike a dove-cote. This contains the
spiral staircase up which visitors are earnestly implored, by the
caretaker, to wend their way and participate in the view from the
heights above. This view, though undeniably wider in range than are most
elevated view-points, is hardly of interest to one who seeks the
beauties of the structure itself. There are three porches on the west
facade, all fairly well filled with foliaged ornament and bas-reliefs.
They are of the thirteenth century, and of a thoroughly florid order.
Included in the "_tresor_" are two gifts from St. Louis, the chasuble of
St. Regnobert, and an ivory and enamel casket.
[Illustration: _CATHEDRAL of NOTRE DAME SAINT LO_]
VII
NOTRE DAME DE ST. LO
This picturesquely situated city of the Cotentin, St. Lo, is so named
from the Bishop St. Laud, who lived in the neighbourhood in the sixth
century. Later, it became a Huguenot stronghold, and was ably, though
unsuccessfully, defended by Colombiers. It forms, with its former
Cathedral of Notre Dame crowning its height, another of those ensembles
which will always linger in the memory of the traveller who first comes
upon it clad in spring and summer verdure. The rippling Vire at its very
feet gives at once the note; it not only binds and enwraps it like the
setting of a precious stone, but adds that one feature which, lacking,
would be a chord misplaced. Perhaps no other cathedral in all France,
with regard to its bijou setting, certainly no other so accessible to
the English tourist, has more dainty charm than this not very grand, but
graceful, church at St. Lo. Its towers, though not uniform as to size,
are of apparently the same gradual proportions, and, if not the most
impressive, are at least the most beautiful in Normandy. They rise high
above the wooded crest which encircles their base in true picture-book
fashion. The attraction of the river, here, is unusual, in that it
presents no accustomed "slummy" picturesqueness, but winds slowly, amid
its green, to the very base of the cliff which upholds the chief portion
of the town and its cathedral.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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