The altar-piece itself, slightly concave in shape, is the largest, if not the best, of its kind. It is composed of pyramidically superimposed niches flanked by gilded columns and occupied by statues of painted and gilded wood. The effect from a distance is dazzling,--the reds, blues, and gold mingle together and produce a multicoloured mass reaching to the height of the nave; on closer examination, the workmanship is seen to be both coarse and naïve,--primitive as compared to the more finished _retablos_ of Burgos, Astorga, etc. To conclude: The visitor who, standing between the choir and the high altar of the cathedral, looks at both, stands, as it were, in the presence of an immense riddle. He cannot classify: there is no purity of one style, but a medley of hundreds of styles, pure in themselves, it is true, but not in the ensemble. Besides, the personality of each has been lost or drowned, either by ultra-decoration or by juxtaposition. A collective value is thus obtained which cannot be pulled to pieces, for then it would lose all its significance as an art unity--a complex art unity, in this case peculiar to Spain. Neither is repose, meditation, or frank admiration to be gleaned from such a gigantic _potpourri_ of art wonders, but rather a feeling--as far as we Northerners are concerned--of amazement, of stupor, and of an utter impossibility to understand such a luxurious display of idolatry rather than of faith, of scenic effect rather than of discreet prayer. But then, it may just be this idolatry and love of scenic effect which produces in the Spaniard what we have called _religious awe_. We feel it in a long-aisled Gothic temple; the Spaniard feels it when standing beneath the _croisée_ of his cathedral churches. The whole matter is a question of race. THE END. _Appendices_ I [Illustration] _Archbishoprics and Bishoprics of Northern Spain_ II _Dimensions and Chronology_ ASTORGA See dedicated to Saviour and San Toribio. Legendary (?) erection of see, 1st century (oldest in peninsula). First historical bishop, Dominiciano, 347 A. D. During Arab invasion see was being continually destroyed and rebuilt. 1069, first cathedral (on record) was erected. 1120, second cathedral was erected. XIIIth century, third cathedral was erected. 1471, fourth (present) cathedral was begun; terminated XVIth century. XVth and XVIth century ogival; imitation of that of Leon. * * * Chief attractions: Northern front, plateresque retablo. AVILA Dedicated to San Salvador. First bishop (legendary?), San Segundo, in Ist century. See destroyed during Arab invasion. First bishop after Reconquest, Jeronimo in XIth century. * * * Date of foundation and erection unknown. Legendary foundation, 1091; finished in 1105 (?). Late XIIth century Spanish Gothic fortress church. Apse XIIth century; transept XIVth century. Western front XVth century; tower late XIVth century. * * * Width of transept and of nave, 30 feet.