The Cathedrals of Southern FranceMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
The Cathedrals of Southern France
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
Bayonne itself has had many and varied historical associations, though
it is not steeped in that antiquity which is the birthright of many
another favoured spot.
Guide-books and the "notes-and-queries columns" of antiquarian journals
have unduly enlarged upon the fact that the bayonet--to-day a well-nigh
useless appendage as a weapon of war--was first invented here. It is
interesting as a fact, perhaps, but it is not of æsthetic moment.
The most gorgeous event of history connected with Bayonne and its
immediate vicinity--among all that catalogue, from the minor Spanish
invasions to Wellington's stupendous activities--was undoubtedly that
which led up to the famous Pyrenean Treaty made on the Isle du Faisan,
close beside the bridge, in the river Bidassoa, on the Spanish frontier.
The memory of the parts played therein by Mazarin and De Haro, and not
less the gorgeous pavilion in which the function was held, form a
setting which the writers of "poetical plays" and "historical romances"
seem to have neglected.
This magnificent apartment was decorated by Velasquez, who, it is said,
died of his inglorious transformation into an upholsterer.
The cathedral at Bayonne is contemporary with those at Troyes, Meaux,
and Auxerre, in the north of France. It resembles greatly the latter as
to general proportions and situation, though it possesses two completed
spires, whereas St. Etienne, at Auxerre, has but one.
In size and beauty the cathedral at Bayonne is far above the lower rank
of the cathedrals of France, and in spite of extensive restorations, it
yet stands forth as a mediæval work of great importance.
From a foundation of the date of 1140, a structure was in part completed
by 1213, at which time the whole existing fabric suffered the ravages of
fire. Work was immediately undertaken again, commencing with the choir;
and, except for the grand portal of the west front, the whole church was
finished by the mid-sixteenth century.
Restoration of a late date, induced by the generosity of a native of the
city, has resulted in the completion of the cathedral, which, if not a
really grand church to-day, is an exceedingly near approach thereto.
The fine western towers are modern, but they form the one note which
produces the effect of _ensemble_, which otherwise would be entirely
wanting.
The view from the Quai Bergemet, just across the Adour, for
picturesqueness of the quality which artists--tyros and masters
alike--love to sketch, is reminiscent only of St. Lo in Normandy.
Aside from the charm of its general picturesqueness of situation and
grouping, Notre Dame de Bayonne will appeal mostly by its interior
arrangements and embellishments.
The western portal is still lacking the greatness which future ages may
yet bestow upon it, and that of the north transept, by which one enters,
is, though somewhat more ornate, not otherwise remarkable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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