The Cathedrals of Southern FranceMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
The Cathedrals of Southern France
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
XXIII
NOTRE DAME DE BOURG
The chief ecclesiastical attraction of Bourg-en-Bresse is not its
one-time cathedral of Notre Dame, which is but a poor Renaissance affair
of the fifteenth to seventeenth centuries.
The famous Église de Brou, which Matthew Arnold described so justly and
fully in his verses, is a florid Gothic monument which ranks among the
most celebrated in France. It is situated something less than a mile
from the town, and is a show-piece which will not be neglected. Its
charms are too many and varied to be even suggested here.
There are a series of sculptured figures of the prophets and apostles,
from a fifteenth or sixteenth-century _atelier_, that may or may not
have given the latter-day Sargent his suggestion for his celebrated
"frieze of the prophets." They are wonderfully like, at all events, and
the observation is advisedly included here, though it is not intended as
a sneer at Sargent's masterwork.
This wonderful sixteenth-century Église de Brou, in a highly decorated
Gothic style, its monuments, altars, and admirable glass, is not
elsewhere equalled, as to elaborateness, in any church of its size or
rank.
Notre Dame de Bourg--the cathedral--though manifestly a Renaissance
structure, has not a little of the Gothic spirit in its interior
arrangements and details. It is as if a Renaissance shell--and not a
handsome one--were enclosing a Gothic treasure.
There is the unusual polygonal apside, which dates from the fifteenth or
sixteenth century, and is the most curious part of the entire edifice.
The octagonal tower of the west has, in its higher story, been replaced
by an ugly dome-shaped excrescence surmounted by an enormous gilded
cross which is by no means beautiful.
The west façade in general, in whose portal are shown some evidences of
the Gothic spirit, which at the time of its erection had not wholly
died, is uninteresting and all out of proportion to a church of its
rank.
The interior effect somewhat redeems the unpromising exterior.
There is a magnificent marble high-altar, jewel-wrought and of much
splendour. The two chapels have modern glass. A fine head of Christ,
carved in ivory, is to be seen in the sacristy. Previous to 1789 it was
kept in the great council-chamber of the _États de la Bresse_.
In the sacristy also there are two pictures, of the German school of the
sixteenth century.
There are sixty-eight stalls, of the sixteenth century, carved in wood.
Curiously enough, these stalls--of most excellent workmanship--are not
placed within the regulation confines of the choir, but are ranged in
two rows along the wall of the apside.
XXIV
GLANDÈVE, SENEZ, RIEZ, SISTERON
The diocese of Digne now includes four _ci-devant_ bishoprics, each of
which was suppressed at the Revolution.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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