The Century Illustrated Monthly Magazine, September, 1913: Vol. LXXXVI, No. 5Various
General
The Century Illustrated Monthly Magazine, September, 1913: Vol. LXXXVI, No. 5
Various
Periodicals
It seems odd to make separate comment on something so thoroughly
involved with everything else in a trip of this kind as the streets of
London; but they contrasted so strangely with those of other cities
I have seen that I am forced to comment on them. For one thing, they
are seldom straight for any distance, and they change their names as
frequently and as unexpectedly as a thief. Bond Street speedily becomes
Old Bond Street or New Bond Street, according to the direction in which
you are going, and I never could see why the Strand should turn into
Fleet Street as it went along, and then into Ludgate Hill, and then
into Cannon Street. Neither could I understand why Whitechapel Road
should change to Mile End Road; but that is neither here nor there.
The thing that interested me about London streets first was that
there were no high buildings, nothing, as a rule, over four or five
stories, though now and then you actually find an eight- or nine-story
building. There are some near Victoria Street in the vicinity of the
Roman Catholic Cathedral of Westminster. For another thing, the vast
majority of these buildings are comparatively old, not new, like those
in New York or Rome or Berlin or Paris or Milan. London is older in
its seeming than almost any of these other cities, and yet this may
be due to the fact that it is smokier than any of the others. I saw
it always in gray weather or through, at best, a sunlit golden haze,
when it looked more like burnished brass than anything else. Then it
was lovely. The buildings in almost all cases were of a vintage which
has passed in America. Outside of some of the old palaces and castles
in London,--St. James’s, Buckingham, the Tower, Windsor,--there are
no fine buildings. The Houses of Parliament and the cathedrals are
excluded, of course.
One evening I went with a friend of mine to visit the House of
Parliament, that noble pile of buildings on the banks of the Thames.
For days I had been skirting about them, interested in other things.
The clock-tower, with its great round clock-face,--twenty-three feet
in diameter, some one told me,--had been staring me in the face over
a stretch of park space and intervening buildings on such evenings as
Parliament was in session, and I frequently debated with myself whether
I should trouble to go or not, even if some one invited me. I grow so
weary of standard, completed things at times! However, I did go. It
came about through the Hon. T. P. O’Connor, M.P., an old admirer of
“Sister Carrie,” who, hearing that I was in London, invited me. He had
just finished reading “Jennie Gerhardt” the night I met him, and I
shall never forget the kindly glow of his face as, on meeting me in the
dining-room of the House of Commons, he exclaimed:
“Ah, the biographer of that poor girl! And how charming she was, too!
Ah me! Ah me!”
I can hear the soft brogue in his voice yet, and see the gay romance of
his Irish eye. Are not the Irish all inborn cavaliers, anyhow?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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