The Chautauquan, Vol. 03, June 1883Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
History
The Chautauquan, Vol. 03, June 1883
Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
Chautauqua Institution -- Periodicals; Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle -- Periodicals
A voyage to India is a prolonged pleasure excursion. Day after day
your ship steams through unruffled seas and under unclouded skies.
The mercury ranges from 75° to 85°. Thick canvas stretched over the
deck protects us from the sun’s fierce rays, and in these shortest
days his course is quickly run. July, August, and September are the
months when the Red Sea, which is like a chimney between two deserts,
becomes almost intolerable. Late in the afternoon of our fourth day
out, we pass certain islands which rear their sharp, barren tusks
above the waters, and the sun sinks behind verdureless mountains some
two thousand feet high. At an early hour the next morning we pass
the Straits of Babel Mandeb, and reach Aden at eleven o’clock. This
Gibraltar of the Arabian Seas is owned by the English, and, in the
extinct crater of a volcano, has sprung up a flourishing town of thirty
thousand inhabitants. Rain comes here only once in three years, when it
descends copiously during the greater part of September. This precious
downfall is caught in wells excavated out of the solid rock; and
this, together with what is manufactured from sea water, supplies the
inhabitants during the dry season at the rate of six shillings for one
hundred gallons.
As our steamer stopped in the roadstead off Aden we discerned small
boats coming toward us, and numerous black heads bobbing up and down
in the clear, green waters. These boats contained African boys, of
the Somali tribe, from eight to fifteen years of age, who, perfectly
naked, except a strip of cloth about the loins, climbed up like
squirrels on our ship, shouting continually, in good English, “Have a
dive, sir? have a dive? have a dive?” As soon as a bit of silver was
thrown into the water half-a-dozen of them would plunge for it and,
after a moment’s disappearance of the black heads, up they would come
again, one of them having in his mouth the coveted coin. The water
seemed to be as natural an element to these boys as though they were
the descendants of Undine. When neither diving nor swimming they would
tread the aqueous fluid in such a way as almost to sit on the waves.
One poor little fellow had had one leg bitten off by a shark, close
up to the thigh, but he hopped about as merrily as any of them and
performed as marvelous aquatic feats. During the five hours we remained
in port our ship’s deck was filled with traders, who had brought for
sale white and gray ostrich feathers, pieces of amber with imprisoned
insects, photographs of Aden, grass cloth from Madagascar, and Turkish
embroideries. They began by asking most exorbitant prices, and when you
offered about half what they asked, such sad, reproachful glances as
they cast upon you! Eventually they would accept fair terms rather than
lose the trade. Throughout India, Europeans, in dealing with natives,
have found by long experience that the real worth of their merchandise
is about one-third of the asking price. It was interesting to see the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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