The Chautauquan, Vol. 03, May 1883Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
History
The Chautauquan, Vol. 03, May 1883
Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
Chautauqua Institution -- Periodicals; Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle -- Periodicals
A burial place in Italy, called a _Campo Santo_, is arranged in
the form of a square with covered arcades like the cloisters of
a cathedral, and a sunny, open central space. The one at Pisa is
particularly sacred because the earth in the open court was brought
from Jerusalem. We wandered through these aisles filled with mortuary
marbles and tablets enjoying the reflection of the sunlight falling
through the beautiful tracing of the open, round-arched windows. The
frescoes by Orcagna representing Death and the Last Judgment, were
fascinating from their horrible realistic treatment. The Baptistery,
a circular, dome-crowned building, is a perfect gem inside and out,
exquisitely finished as an ivory toy. There is a wonderful echo here
which comes floating down from the dome like music from an angelic
choir. Two hundred and ninety-four steps lead to the top of the famous
Leaning Tower, and one is repaid for the ascent by a wide outlook
on the Apennines; the city itself through which the Arno winds; the
cluster of fine buildings at the base, and the flashing Mediterranean
six miles distant. And so, closing our eyes repeatedly to see if
we could reproduce in mental vision the picture before us, we bade
farewell to Pisa and are next to be found at Rome.
In order to begin acquaintance with a new city, it is a good plan to
take at the outset what the guide books call an “orientation drive,”
obtaining in this way a general idea of the topography of the city,
a first vivid glance at the buildings, monuments, and ruins, closing
the drive with an outlook over the city from some commanding height.
Starting from the head of the Corso, the principal business street of
Rome, we paused at the column of Marcus Aurelius, then on to the Piazza
Venezia and Trajan’s Forum. At the Roman Forum the nineteenth century
grows dim as the imagination calls up the orators, senators, warriors,
and famous men of old Rome, who once paced among these gray, broken
pillars. Jerusalem and her woes come before us as we reach the Arch
of Titus, and see in bas-relief the pictured story of the capture of
the golden candlestick, the sacred vessels, and the treasures of the
Temple. To this day pious Jews will not pass under this arch. It is
but a step from here to the Colosseum, where again we are reminded of
the overthrow of the Holy City, for this huge amphitheater was built
by the enforced labor of sixty thousand captive Jews. The best piece
of descriptive literature to read here is found in Richter’s Titan.
Past St. John Lateran and S. Maria Maggiore, we drive down the Via
Nazionale, a broad, new street lined with stately marble buildings,
called palaces, in one of which we find most agreeable and healthy
quarters during our stay in Rome. Arriving in front of St. Peter’s, we
can not resist the temptation of entering for a moment. The fountains
were shot through by the brilliant mid-day sunlight as we walked up the
magnificent piazza to the largest and most imposing, if not the most
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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