The Chautauquan, Vol. 04, October 1883Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
Philosophy
The Chautauquan, Vol. 04, October 1883
Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
Chautauqua Institution -- Periodicals; Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle -- Periodicals
Memel, Tilsit, and Königsberg were passed, and finally the blue Baltic
and Danzig were in sight. We had almost looked for amber-colored water,
so long had we associated the beautiful display of amber jewels in the
Berlin shop windows with the Baltic, from which it is taken. Even Homer
refers to the Baltic as the resting place of amber, its bed being laid
with the sunny stone.
A multitude of ship-masts rose from the coast, and from beyond the
pointed gables of the old city, lessening in altitude as the vista
lengthened. This first glimpse was a more fascinating picture than we
were afterward able to find. Yet the hotel helped the preconceived idea
that Danzig was really a second Nuremberg.
The broad stone steps, or stairway, which started from the
_portecochère_, were whitened by ashes, as one so often sees them in
Germany—a pretty state of things for a lady descending in a black
dress. The room we were to occupy was an immense ball-room, utilized
in quiet times for a bed-room. Two candles burned in their tall
candlesticks on the center-table, and by the light of the twilight we
could see across the street some beautiful and curious carvings in the
opposite gabled houses. The price paid for accommodations was large
enough to have enabled us to see castles in the air, and to have our
ball-room illuminated with gas until morning. We concluded they seldom
had guests in this hotel, and therefore made heavy profits when some
did come along.
That evening we wandered around the old crooked streets—paved in
cobble-stones, which wore our shoes almost in pieces—until we were glad
to pause in front of the great old red-brick cathedral. Its towers
cut the big yellow moon in two at every angle we could see them.
We stretched our heads to take in the tremendous dimensions of the
cathedral, and the ornamentations of some of the best houses, until
we suddenly remembered that it was nearing midnight, and that we had
been in actual service at sight-seeing and traveling since an early
hour that morning, so we returned to our ball-room and two candles. The
next morning, we imagined, we would have a great treat in hunting up
old carved furniture, for which Danzig, we had been told by our German
friends, was equal to Augsburg; but the antiquarians had left no place
unexplored. No trace of massive-legged table or curiously-carved chairs
was to be found, save in the Museum and the Rathhaus (Council Hall).
The stairway of the Council Hall remains indeed a monument to the
ingenious designer and skillful carver, and the judge’s chair is most
curious.
A fine old convent has been turned into a museum. Its _kreuz gänge_, or
cross-passages, give the place a most mysterious, sequestered air, and
they are gradually collecting some great pictures and treasures within
its walls. But the Rathhaus, in its architecture, surpasses everything
in Danzig, excepting, perhaps, its fine old gateways.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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