The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
‘The adaptation of M. Mège’s process to the imitation
of other dairy products is a natural sequence to the
success, in a commercial sense, which has attended
the manufacture of artificial butter. The skim-milk
difficulty in the American butter factories has set
their managers to work at the problem of its conversion
into something saleable for some time past. This
difficulty has been increased of late years by the
invention of the cream separator, which deprives the
milk of practically all its cream; but on the large
dairy farms of Denmark, where from 100 to 300 cows are
kept and these separators are used, the skim-milk is
made into skim-cheese, and the working classes in that
country do not object to eat a nutritious article of
diet which they can buy at about fourpence per pound.
But neither the American nor the English labourer, as a
general rule, likes a cheese that is at the same time
exceedingly poor in fat and excessively hard to bite.
‘Obviously the first step was to add fat to the
skim-milk so as to replace the cream which had been
taken off. This, however, was no easy matter, for
neither oleomargarine nor lard would mix with the
skim-milk when directly applied. The imitation cheese
attempted to be made in this way was wretchedly bad;
and, when cut, the added fatty matter was found in
streaks, and to a great extent oozed out in its
original condition. “Lard-cheese,” in fact, soon
became a by-word and a reproach, and it is stated that
last year a large quantity of poor, unsophisticated
cheese was sold under that name, and thus increased its
evil reputation.
‘But the utilisation of the skim-milk still remained a
necessity to the managers of the “creameries,” if they
were to be commercially successful. The question was,
therefore, considered whether it would not be possible
to make an artificial cream which should replace the
natural cream which had been taken off the milk. This
idea was soon put to a practical test, and with most
remarkable results.
‘The process now adopted begins with the manufacture
of artificial cream as follows: A certain quantity of
skim-milk is heated to about 85° Fahr., and one-half
the quantity of either lard, oleomargarine, or olive
oil, as the case may be. These substances are conveyed
through separate pipes into an “emulsion” machine,
which subdivides both materials to a surprising degree,
while it mixes them thoroughly together—the arrangement
insuring that the machine is regularly fed with the due
proportions of the substances which are being used. It
is stated that the artificial cream made with olive oil
in this way is not objected to in the United States for
use in tea and coffee.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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