The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Before giving my answer to this question I must explain the chemical
constitution of fat. It is a compound of a very weak base with very
weak acids. The basic substance is glycerine, the acids (not sour at
all, but so named because they combine with bases as the actually sour
acids do) are stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, &c., and bear
the general name of ‘fatty acids.’ They are solid or liquid, according
to temperature. When solid they are pearly crystalline substances, when
fused they are oily liquids.
To simplify, I will take one of these as a type, and that the one which
is the chief constituent of animal fats, viz. stearic acid. I have a
lump of it before me. Newly broken through, it might at a distance
be mistaken for a piece of Carrara marble. It is granular, like the
marble, but not so hard, and, when rubbed with the hand, differs from
the marble in betraying its origin by a small degree of unctuousness,
but it can scarcely be described as greasy.
I find by experiment that this may be mixed with glycerine without
combination taking place, that when heated with glycerine just to its
fusing point, and the two are agitated together, the combination is by
no means complete. Instead of obtaining a soft, smooth fat, I obtain
a granular fat small stearic crystals with glycerine amongst them. It
is a _mixture_ of stearic acid and glycerine, not a chemical compound;
it is stearic acid and glycerine, but not a stearate of glycerine or
glycerine stearate.
A similar separation is what I suppose to occur in the cooking of
animal fat. I find that mutton-fat, beef-fat, or other fat when raw
is perfectly smooth, as tested by rubbing a small quantity, free from
membrane, between the finger and thumb, or by the still more delicate
test of rubbing it between the tip of the tongue and the palate.
But dripping, whether of beef, or mutton, or poultry, is granular,
as anybody who has ever eaten bread and dripping knows well enough,
and the manufacturers of ‘butterine,’ or ‘bosch,’ know too well,
the destruction or prevention of this granulation being one of the
difficulties of their art.
My theory of the cookery of fat is simply that heat, when continued
long enough, or raised sufficiently high, effects an incipient
dissociation of the fatty acids from the glycerine, and thus assists
the digestive organs by presenting the base and the acids in a
condition better fitted (or advanced by one stage) for the new
combinations demanded by assimilation. Some physiologists have lately
asserted that the fat of our food is not assimilated at all—not laid
down again as fat, but is used directly as fuel for the maintenance of
animal heat.
If this is correct, the advantage of the preliminary dissociation is
more decided, for the combustible portion of the fat is its fatty
acids; the glycerine is an impediment to combustion, so much so that
the modern candle-maker removes it, and thereby greatly improves the
combustibility of his candles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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