The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Carcasses of sheep are thereby frozen to stony hardness immediately
they are slaughtered in New Zealand and Australia, then packed in close
refrigerated cars, carried to the ship, and there stowed in chambers
refrigerated by the same means, and thus brought to England in the same
state of stony hardness as that originally produced. I dined to-day
on one of the legs of a sheep that I bought a week ago, and which
was grazing at the Antipodes three months before. I prefer it to any
English mutton ordinarily obtainable.
The grounds of this preference will be understood when I explain that
English farmers, who manufacture mutton as a primary product, kill
their sheep as soon as they are full grown, when a year old or less.
They cannot afford to feed a sheep for two years longer merely to
improve its flavour without adding to its weight. Country gentlemen,
who do not care for expense, occasionally regale their friends on a
haunch or saddle of three-year-old mutton, as a rare and costly luxury.
The Antipodean graziers are wool growers. Until lately mutton was
merely used as manure, and even now it is but a secondary product. The
wool crop improves year by year until the sheep is three or four years
old; therefore it is not slaughtered until this age is attained; and
thus the sheep sent to England are similar to those of the country
squire, and such as the English farmer could not send to market under
eighteenpence per pound.
There is, however, one drawback; but I have tested it thoroughly
(having supplied my own table during the last six months with no other
mutton than that from New Zealand), and find it so trifling as to
be imperceptible unless critically looked for. It is simply that, in
thawing, a small quantity of the juice of the meat oozes out. This is
more than compensated by the superior richness and fulness of flavour
of the meat itself, which is much darker in colour than young mutton.
Legs of frozen mutton should be hung with the thick cut part upwards.
With this precaution the loss of juice is but nominal. If the frozen
sheep is not cut up until completely thawed and required for cooking
there is no loss.
Another successful method of meat-preserving has been more lately
introduced. It is based upon the remarkable antiseptic properties of
boric acid (or boracic acid as it is sometimes named); this is the
characteristic constituent of borax, and, like the fatty acids above
described, has no sour flavour.
The speciality of this process, invented by Mr. Jones, a
Gloucestershire surgeon, is the method by which a small quantity of the
antiseptic is made to permeate the whole of the carcass.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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