The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
+--------------------+---------------+---------------+--------+
| -- | Gluten-Fibrin | Gluten-Casein | Glutin |
+--------------------+---------------+---------------+--------+
| Carbon | 53·23 | 53·46 | 53·27 |
| Hydrogen | 7·01 | 7·13 | 7·17 |
| Nitrogen | 16·41 | 16·04 | 15·94 |
| Oxygen and sulphur | 23·35 | 23·37 | 23·62 |
+--------------------+---------------+---------------+--------+
+--------------------+---------------+---------------+--------+
| | Blood-Fibrin | | |
| -- | (Scherer) | Animal-Casein | Albumen|
+--------------------+---------------+---------------+--------+
| Carbon | 53·57 | 53·83 | 53·50 |
| Hydrogen | 6·90 | 7·15 | 7·00 |
| Nitrogen | 15·72 | 15·65 | 15·50 |
| Oxygen and sulphur | 22·81 | 23·37 | 24·00 |
+--------------------+---------------+---------------+--------+
Gluten is usually described as ‘partly soluble in hot water.’ My own
examination of this substance suggests that ‘partially soluble’ is a
better description than ‘partly soluble’ (Miller) or ‘very slightly
soluble’ (Lehmann). This difference is not merely a verbal quibble, but
very real and practical in reference to the _rationale_ of its cookery.
A partially soluble substance is one which is composed of soluble and
also of insoluble constituents, which, as already stated, is strictly
the case with gluten in reference to the solvent action of hot alcohol.
A very slightly soluble substance is one that dissolves completely, but
demands a very large quantity of the solvent. I find that the action of
hot water on gluten, as applied in cookery, is to effect what may be
described as a partial solution—that is, it effects a loosening of the
bonds of solidity without going so far as to render it completely fluid.
It appears to be a sort of hydration similar to that which is effected
by hot water on starch, but less decided.
To illustrate this, wash some flour in cold water so as to separate
the gluten in the manner already described; then boil some flour as in
making ordinary bill-stickers’ paste, and wash this in cold water. The
gluten will come out with difficulty from this, and, when separated,
will be softer and less tenacious than the cold-washed specimen. This
difference remains until some of the water it contains is driven out,
for which reason I regard it as hydrated, though I am not prepared to
say that the hydration is of a truly chemical character—a definite
chemical combination of gluten with water; it may be only a mechanical
combination—a loosening of solidity by a molecular intermingling of
water.
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