The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Such seconds flour does not fairly produce white bread, and consumers
are unwise in demanding whiteness. In my household we make our own
bread, but occasionally, when the demand exceeds ordinary supply, a
loaf or two is bought from the baker. I find that, with corresponding
or identical flour, the baker’s bread is whiter than the home-made, and
proportionally inferior. I may describe it as colourless in flavour,
it lacks the characteristic of wheaten sweetness. There are, however,
exceptions to this, as certain bakers are now doing a great business in
supplying what they call ‘home-made’ or ‘farmhouse’ bread. It is darker
in colour than ordinary bread, but is sold nevertheless at a higher
price, and I find that it has the flavour of the bread made in my own
kitchen. When their customers become more intelligent, all the bakers
will doubtless cease to incur the expense of buying packets of ‘stuff’
or ‘rocky,’ or any other bleaching abomination.
Liebig asserts that in certain cases the use of lime-water improves the
quality of bread. Tomlinson says that ‘in the time of bad harvests,
when the wheat is damaged, the flour may be considerably improved,
without any injurious result whatever, by the addition of from 20 to 40
grains of carbonate of magnesia to every pound of flour.’ It is also
stated that chalk has been used for the same purpose. These would all
act in nearly the same manner by neutralising any acid, such as acetic,
that might already exist or be generated in the course of fermentation.
When gluten is kept in a moist state, it slowly loses its soft,
elastic, and insoluble condition; if kept in water for a few days, it
gradually runs down into a turbid, slimy solution, which does not form
dough when mixed with starch. The gluten of imperfectly-ripened wheat,
or of flour or wheat that has been badly kept in the midst of humid
surroundings, appears to have fallen partially into this condition, the
gluten being an actively hygroscopic substance.
Liebig’s experiments show that flour in which the gluten has undergone
this partial change may have its original qualities restored by mixing
100 parts of flour with 26 or 27 parts of saturated lime-water and a
sufficiency of ordinary water to work it into dough. I suspect that
the action of the alum is of a similar kind, though this does not
satisfactorily account for the bleaching.
The action of sulphate of copper, which has been used in Belgium and
other places for improving the appearance and sponginess of loaves, is
still more mysterious than that of alum. Kuhlmann found that a single
grain in a 4-lb. loaf produced a marked alteration in the appearance
of the bread. Fortunately this adulteration, if perpetrated to a
mischievous extent, may be easily detected by acidulating the crumb,
and then moistening with a solution of ferrocyanide of potassium.
The brown colour thus produced betrays the presence of copper. The
detection of alum in small quantities is extremely difficult.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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