The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
The difference between new and stale bread is familiar enough, but
the nature of the difference is by no means so commonly understood.
It is generally supposed to be a simple result of mere drying. That
this is not a true explanation may be easily proved by repeating the
experiments of Boussingault, who placed a very stale loaf (six days
old) in an oven for an hour, during which time it was, of course,
being further dried; but, nevertheless, it came out as a new loaf. He
found that during the six days, while becoming stale, it only lost 1
per cent. of its weight by drying, and that during the one hour in the
oven it lost 3½ per cent. in becoming new, and apparently more moist.
By using an air-tight case instead of an ordinary oven, he repeated
the experiment several times in succession on the same piece of bread,
making it alternately stale and new each time.
For this experiment the oven should be but moderately heated—260°
to 300° Fahr. is sufficient. I am fond of hot rolls for breakfast,
and frequently have them _à la Boussingault_, by treating stale
bread-crusts in this manner. My wife tells me that when the crusts
have been long neglected, and are thin, the Boussingault hot rolls are
improved by dipping the crust in water before putting it into the oven.
This is not necessary in experimenting with a whole loaf or a thick
piece of stale bread.
The crumb of bread, whether new or stale, contains about 45 per cent.
of water. Miller says ‘the difference in properties between the two
depends simply upon difference in molecular arrangement.’
This ‘molecular arrangement’ is the customary modern method of
explaining a multitude of similar physical and chemical problems, or,
as I would rather say, of evading explanation under the cover of a
vague conventional phrase.
I have made some simple experiments which supply a visible explanation
of the facts without invoking the aid of any invisible atoms or
molecules, or any imaginary arrangements or rearrangements of these
imaginary entities.
I find that, as bread becomes stale, its porosity _appears_ to
increase, and that when renewed by reheating, it returns to its
original _apparently_ smaller degree of porosity. That this change can
be only apparent is evident from the facts that the total quantity of
solid material in the loaf remains the same, and its total dimensions
are retained more or less completely by the rigidity of the crust.
I say ‘more or less,’ because this depends upon the thickness
and hardness of the crust, and also upon the completeness of its
surrounding. Lightly-baked loaves shrink a little in dimensions in
becoming stale, and partly regain the loss on reheating, but this
difference only exaggerates the apparent paradox of varying porosity,
as the diminished bulk of a given quantity of material displays
increased porosity, and the increase of total dimensions accompanies
the diminished porosity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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