The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
The staple food was what he calls a ‘soup,’ but I find, on following
out his instructions for making it, that I obtain a porridge rather
than a soup. He made many experiments, and says: ‘I constantly found
that the richness or quality of a soup depended more upon a proper
choice of the ingredients, and a proper management of the fire in the
combination of these ingredients, than upon the quantity of solid
nutritious matter employed;—much more upon the art and skill of the
cook than upon the sum laid out in the market.’
Our vegetarian friends will be interested in learning that at first he
used meat in the soup provided for the beggars, but gradually omitted
it, and the change was unnoticed by those who ate, and no difference
was observable as regards its nutritive value.
In 1790, little, or rather nothing, was known of the chemistry of food.
Oxygen had been discovered only sixteen years before, and chemical
analysis, as now understood, was an unknown art. In spite of this
Rumford selected as the basis of his soup just that proximate element
which we now know to be one of the most nutritious that he could have
obtained from either the animal or vegetable kingdom—viz. _casein_.
He not only selected this, but he combined it with those other
constituents of food which our highest refinements of modern practical
chemistry and physiology have proved to be exactly what are required to
supplement the casein and constitute a complete dietary. By selecting
the cheapest form of casein and the cheapest sources of the other
constituents, he succeeded in supplying the beggars with good hot
dinners daily at the cost of less than one halfpenny each. The cost of
the mess for the Bavarian soldiers under his command was rather more,
viz. twopence daily, three farthings of this being devoted to pure
luxuries, such as beer, &c.
Some of his chemical speculations, however, have not been confirmed.
The composition of water had just been discovered, and he found by
experience that a given quantity of solid food was more satisfying to
the appetite and more effective in nutrition when made into soup by
long boiling with water. This led him to suppose that the water itself
was decomposed by cookery, and its elements recombined or united with
other elements, and thus became nutritious by being converted into the
tissues of plants and animals.
Thus, speaking of the barley which formed an important constituent of
his soup, he says: ‘It requires, it is true, a great deal of boiling;
but when it is properly managed, it thickens a vast quantity of water,
and, as I suppose, _prepares it for decomposition_’ (the italics are
his own).
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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