The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
The apparatus designed by Rossignol is one of the best suited for this
purpose. It is a large metallic vat or boiler with air-tight cover and
a false bottom, from which rises a trumpet-shaped tube through the
middle of the vat, and passing through an air-tight fitting in the
cover. The chamber formed by the false bottom is filled with water by
means of this tube, the object being to prevent the wine at the lower
part from being heated directly by the fire which is below the water
chamber. A thermometer is also inserted air-tight in the lid, with its
bulb half-way down the vat. To allow for expansion a tube is similarly
fitted into the lid. This is bent syphon-like, and its lower end dipped
into a flask containing wine or water, so that air or vapour may escape
and bubble through, but none enter. Even in drawing off from the vat
the wine is not allowed to flow through the air, but is conveyed by
a pipe which bends down, and dips to the bottom of the barrel. The
apparatus is bulky and expensive.
If heated with exposure to air, the wine acquires a flavour easily
recognised as the ‘_goût de cuit_,’ or flavour of cooking. When
Pasteur’s method is properly conducted the only changes effected
are those which would be otherwise produced by age. I have heard of
many failures made by English wine-merchants in their attempts at
Pasteuring, and am not at all surprised, seeing how secretly and
clumsily these attempts have been made.
The changes thus produced are somewhat obscure. One effect is probably
that which more decidedly occurs in the maturing of whisky and other
spirits distilled from grain, viz. the reduction of the proportion
of amylic alcohol or fusel oil, which, although less abundantly
produced in the fermentation of grape juice than in grain or potato
spirit, is formed in varying quantities. Caproic alcohol and caprylic
alcohol are also produced by the fermentation of grape juice or the
‘marc’ of grapes—_i.e._ the mixture of the whole juice and the skins.
These are acrid, ill-flavoured spirits, more conducive to headache
than the ethylic alcohol, which is proper spirit of good wine. Every
wine-drinker knows that the amount of headache obtainable from a given
quantity of wine, or a given outlay of cash, varies with the sample,
and this variation appears to be due to these supplementary alcohols or
ethers.
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