The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
In the French ‘Journal of Pharmaceutical Chemistry,’ vol. vi. pp.
118-123 (1882), is a paper, by P. Carles, in which the chemical and
hygienic results of plastering are discussed. His general conclusion
is, that the use of gypsum in clearing wines ‘renders them hurtful
as beverages;’ that the gypsum acts ‘on the potassium bitartrate in
the juice of the grape, forming calcium tartrate, tartaric acid, and
potassium sulphate, a large proportion of the last two bodies remaining
in the wine.’ Unplastered wines contain about two grammes of _free
acid_ per litre; after plastering, they contain ‘double or treble that
amount, and even more.’
A German chemist, Griessmayer, and more recently another, Kaiser, have
also studied this subject, and arrive at similar conclusions. Kaiser
analysed wines which were plastered by adding gypsum to the must, that
is to the juice before fermentation, and also samples in which the
gypsum was added to the ‘finished wine,’ _i.e._ for fining, so-called.
He found that ‘in the finished wine, by the addition of gypsum, the
tartaric acid is replaced by sulphuric acid, and there is a perceptible
increase in the calcium; the other constituents remain unaltered.’
His conclusion is that the plastering of wine should be called
adulteration, and treated accordingly, on the ground that the article
in question is thereby deprived of its characteristic constituents,
and others, not normally present, are introduced. This refers more
especially to the plastering or gypsum fining of finished wines.
(Biedermann’s ‘Centralblatt,’ 1881, pp. 632, 633.)
In the paper above named, by P. Carles, we are told that ‘owing to the
injurious nature of the impurities of plastered wines, endeavours have
been made to free them from these by a method called “deplastering,”
but the remedy proves worse than the defect.’ The samples analysed by
Carles contained barium salts, barium chloride having been used to
remove the sulphuric acid. In some cases excess of the barium salt was
found in the wine, and in others barium sulphate was held in suspension.
Closely following the abstract of this paper, in the ‘Journal of
the Chemical Society,’ is another from the French ‘Journal of
Pharmaceutical Chemistry,’ vol. v. pp. 581-3, to which I now refer,
by the way, for the instruction of claret-drinkers, who may not be
aware of the fact that the phylloxera destroyed all the claret grapes
in certain districts of France, without stopping the manufacture or
diminishing the export of claret itself. In this paper, by J. Lefort,
we are told, as a matter of course, that ‘owing to the ravages of the
phylloxera among the vines, substitutes for grape-juice are being
introduced for the manufacture of wines; of these, the author specially
condemns the use of beet-root sugar, since, during its fermentation,
besides ethyl alcohol and aldehyde, it yields propyl, butyl, and amyl
alcohols, which have been shown by Dujardin and Audigé to act as
poisons in very small quantities.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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