The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Some years ago I was at Frankfort, on my way to the Tyrol and Venice,
and there saw, at a few paces before me, an unquestionable Englishman,
with an ill-slung knapsack. I spoke to him, earned his gratitude at
once by showing him how to dispense with that knapsack abomination,
the breast-strap. We chummed, and put up at a genuine German hostelry
of my selection, the Gasthaus zum Schwanen. Here we supped with a
multitude of natives, to the great amusement of my new friend, who
had hitherto halted at hotels devised for Englishmen. The handmaiden
served us with wine in tumblers, and we both pronounced it excellent.
My new friend was enthusiastic; the bouquet was superior to anything
he had ever met with before, and if it could only be fined—it was
not by any means bright—it would be invaluable. He then took me into
his confidence. He was in the wine trade, assisting in his father’s
business; the ‘governor’ had told him to look out in the course of his
travels, as there were obscure vineyards here and there producing very
choice wines that might be contracted for at very low prices. This was
one of them; here was good business. If I would help him to learn all
about it, presentation cases of wine should be poured upon me for ever
after.
I accordingly asked the handmaiden, ‘Was für Wein?’ &c. Her answer
was, ‘Apfel-Wein.’ She was frightened at my burst of laughter, and the
young wine-merchant also imagined that he had made acquaintance with a
lunatic, until I translated the answer, and told him that we had been
drinking cider. We called for more, and _then_ recognised the ‘curious’
bouquet at once.
The manufacture of bouquets has made great progress of late, and they
are much cheaper than formerly. Their chief source is coal-tar, the
refuse from gas-works. That most easily produced is the essence of
bitter almonds, which supplies a ‘nutty’ flavour and bouquet. Anybody
may make it by simply adding benzol (the most volatile portion of the
coal-tar), in small portions at a time, to warm, fuming nitric acid.
On cooling and diluting the mixture, a yellow oil, which solidifies
at a little above the freezing point of water, is formed. It may be
purified by washing first with water, and then with a weak solution of
carbonate of soda to remove the excess of acid. It is now largely used
in cookery as essence of bitter almonds. Its old perfumery name was
Essence of Mirbane.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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