The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
The principal reason was, I believe, that the baker’s large bread-oven
contained at dinner-time a curious medley of meats—mutton, beef, pork,
geese, veal, &c., including stuffing with sage and onions, besides
the possibility of a joint or two that had been hung longer than was
necessary for procuring tenderness. The vapours of these would induce
a confusion of flavours in the milder meats, fully accounting for the
observed superiority of the home-roasted joints.
A little reflection on the principles already expounded will show that,
theoretically regarded, a given piece of meat would be better roasted
in a closed chamber radiating heat _from all sides_ towards the meat
than it could be when suspended in front of a fire and heated only on
one side, while the other side was turned away to cool more or less,
according to the rate of rotation.
If I agreed with the popular belief in the advantage of open-air
exposure to direct radiation from glowing coal, I should suggest that
for large joints a special roasting fire be constructed, by building
an upright cylinder of fire-brick, and erecting within this a smaller
cylinder or grating of iron bars, so that the fuel should be placed
between these, and thus form an upright cylindrical ring or shirt of
fire, enclosed outside by the bricks, but open and glowing towards the
inside of the hollow cylinder, in the midst of which the meat should be
suspended to receive the radiation from all sides.
The whole apparatus might stand under a dome, terminating in an
ordinary chimney, like a glass-house or a steel-maker’s cementing
furnace; or, in this respect, like those wondrous kitchens of the old
seraglio at Constantinople, where each apartment is a huge chimney,
outspreading downwards, so that the cooks, and their materials and
apparatus, as well as the huge fires themselves, are all under the
great central chimney shaft.
I do not, however, recommend such an apparatus, even to the most
wealthy and luxurious epicure, because I am convinced, not merely from
theoretical considerations, but also from practical experiments, that
all kinds of meat may be not merely as well roasted in a close oven
as before an open fire, but that the close chamber, properly managed,
produces _better results in every respect_ than can possibly be
obtained by roasting in the open air.
To obtain such results there must be no compromise, no concession
to any false theory respecting a necessity for special ventilation,
excepting in the case of semi-putrid game or venison, which require to
be carbonised and disinfected as well as cooked, and, of course, also
demand the speedy removal of their noxious vapours.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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