The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
This subject of roasting occupied a large amount of Count Rumford’s
attention while he was in England residing in Brompton Road, and
founding the Royal Institution. His efforts were directed not merely to
cooking the meat effectively, but to doing so economically. Like all
others who have contemplated thoughtfully the habits of Englishmen, he
was shocked at the barbaric waste of fuel that everywhere prevailed in
this country, even to a greater extent then than now.
The first fact that necessarily presented itself to his mind was the
great amount of heat that is wasted, when an ordinary joint of meat is
suspended in front of an ordinary coal fire to intercept and utilise
only a small fraction of its total radiation.
As far as I am aware, there is no other country in Europe where such
a process is indigenous. I say ‘indigenous,’ because there certainly
are hotels where this or any other English extravagance is perpetrated
to please Englishmen who choose to pay for it. What is usually called
roast meat in countries not inhabited by English-speaking people, is
what we should call ‘baked meat,’ the very name of which sets all
the gastronomic bristles of an orthodox Englishman in a position of
perpendicularity.
I have a theory of my own respecting the origin of this prejudice.
Within the recollection of many still living, the great middle class of
Englishmen lived in town; their sitting-rooms were back parlours behind
their shops, or factories, or warehouses; their drawing-rooms were on
the first-floor, and kitchens in the basement.
They kept one general servant of the ‘Marchioness’ type. The
corresponding class now live in suburban villas, keep cook, housemaid,
and parlour-maid, besides the gardener and his boy, and they dine at
supper-time.
In the days of the one marchioness and the basement kitchen, these
citizens ‘of credit and renown’ dined at dinner-time, and were in
the habit of placing a three-legged open iron triangle in a brown
earthenware dish, then spreading a stratum of peeled potatoes on said
dish, and a joint of meat above, on the open triangular support. This
edifice was carried by the marchioness to the bakehouse round the
corner at about 11 A.M., and brought back steaming and savoury at 1 P.M.
This was especially the case on Sundays; but there were exceptions, as
when, for example, the condition of the mistress’s wardrobe offered
no particular motive for going to church, and she stayed at home and
roasted the Sunday dinner. The experience thus obtained demonstrated a
material difference between the flavour of the roasted and the baked
meat very decidedly in favour of the home roasted. Why?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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