The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
A practical example will further illustrate this. Some years ago I was
engaged in the distillation of paraffin oil, and had a few thousand
gallons of the crude liquid in a still with a tall head and a rising
condenser. In spite of severe firing, the distillation proceeded very
slowly. Then I threw into the still, just above the surface of the oil,
a jet of steam. The rate of distillation immediately increased with
the same firing, although the steam was of much lower temperature than
the boiling oil, and, therefore, wasted much heat. The _rationale_ of
this was, that at first an atmosphere of oil vapour stood over the
oil, and this was impervious to more oil vapour, but on sweeping this
out and replacing it by steam, the atmosphere above the liquid oil was
permeable by oil vapour. This principle is largely applied in similar
distillations.
Always keeping in view that the primary problem in roasting is to raise
the temperature throughout to the cooking heat without desiccation
of the natural juices of the meat, and applying to this problem the
laws of vapour diffusion expounded in my last, it is easy enough to
understand the theoretical advantages of roasting in a closed oven, the
space within which speedily becomes saturated with those particular
vapours that resist further vaporisation of these juices.
In all open-air roasting, whether by the one-sided fire of ordinary
construction or the surrounding fire that I have suggested, convection
currents are necessarily at work desiccating and toughening the meat in
spite of the basting, though tempered thereby.
I say ‘theoretical,’ because I despair of practically convincing any
thoroughbred Englishman that baked meat is better than roasted meat by
any reasoning whatever. If, however, he is sufficiently ‘un-English’ to
test the question experimentally, he may possibly convince himself.
To do this fairly, a large joint of meat should be equally divided,
one half roasted in front of the fire, the other in a non-ventilated
oven over a little water by a cook who knows how to heat the oven. This
condition is essential, as some intelligence is demanded in regulating
the temperature of an oven, while any barbarian can carry out the
modern modification of the ordinary device of the savage, who skewers a
bit of meat, and holds this near enough to a fire to make it frizzle.
Having settled this question to my own satisfaction more than twenty
years ago, I now amuse myself occasionally by experimenting upon
others, and continually find that the most uncompromising theoretical
haters of baked meat practically prefer it to orthodox roasted meat,
provided always that they eat it in ignorance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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