The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Rumford tells us that ‘when these roasters were first proposed, and
before their merit was established, many doubts were entertained
respecting the taste of the food prepared in them,’ but that, after
many practical trials, it was proved that ‘meat of every kind, without
any exception, roasted in a roaster, is _better tasted, higher
flavoured, and much more juicy and delicate_ than when roasted on a
spit before an open fire.’ These italics are in the original, and the
testimony of competent judges is quoted.
I must describe one experiment in detail. Two legs of mutton from the
same carcass made equal in weight before cooking were roasted, one
before the fire and the other in a roaster. When cooked, both were
weighed, and the joint roasted in the roaster proved to be heavier than
the other by 6 per cent. They were brought upon table at the same time,
‘and a large and perfectly unprejudiced company was assembled to eat
them.’ Both were found good, but a decided preference given to that
cooked in the roaster; ‘it was much more juicy, and was thought better
tasted.’ Both were fairly eaten up, nothing remaining of either that
was eatable, and the fragments collected. ‘Of the leg of mutton which
had been roasted in the roaster, hardly anything visible remained,
excepting the bare bone, while a considerable heap was formed of scraps
not eatable which remained of that roasted on a spit.’
This was an eloquent experiment; the gain of 6 per cent. tells of
juices retained with consequent gain of flavour, tenderness, and
digestibility, and the subsequent testimony of the scraps describes the
difference in the condition of the tendonous, integumentary portions of
the joints, which are just those that present the toughest practical
problems to the cook, especially in roasting.
But why are these roasters not in general use? Why did they die with
their inventor, notwithstanding the fact, mentioned in his essay, that
Mr. Hopkins, of Greek Street, Soho, had sold above 200, and others were
making them?
Those of my readers who have had practical experience in using hot
air or in superheating steam, will doubtless have already detected a
weak point in the ‘blowpipes.’ When iron pipes are heated to redness,
or thereabouts, and a blast of air or steam passes through them, they
work admirably for a while, but presently the pipe gives way, for iron
is a combustible substance, and burns slowly when heated and supplied
with abundant oxygen, either by means of air or water; the latter being
decomposed, its hydrogen set free, while its oxygen combines with the
iron, and reduces it to friable oxide. Rumford does not appear to have
understood this, or he would have made his blowpipes of fire-clay or
other refractory non-oxidisable material.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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