The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
This modification he called a ‘roasting-oven,’ to distinguish it from
the first described, the ‘roaster.’ He states that the roasting-oven
is not quite so effective as the roaster, but from its greater
cheapness may be largely used. This anticipation has been realised. The
modern ‘kitchener,’ which in so many forms is gradually and steadily
supplanting the ancient open range, is an apparatus in which roasting
in the open air before a fire is superseded by roasting in a closed
chamber or roasting-oven. Having made three removals within the last
twelve years, each preceded by a tedious amount of house-hunting, I
have seen a great many kitchens of newly-built houses, and find that
about 90 per cent. of these have closed kitcheners, and only about 10
per cent. are fitted with open ranges of the old pattern. Bottle-jacks,
like smoke-jacks and spits, are gradually falling into disuse.
When these kitcheners were first introduced, a great point was made
by the manufacturer of the distinction between the roasting and the
baking-oven; the first being provided with a special apparatus for
effecting ventilation by devices more or less resembling that in
Rumford’s roasting-oven. Gradually these degenerated into mere shams,
and now in the best kitcheners even a pretence to ventilation is
abandoned. Having reasoned out my own theory of the conditions demanded
for perfect roasting some time ago (about 1860, when I lectured on
‘Household Philosophy,’ to a class of ladies at the Birmingham and
Midland Institute), I have watched the gradual disappearance of
these concessions to popular prejudice with some interest, as they
show how practical experience has confirmed my theory, which, as
already expounded, is that _fresh meat should be cooked by the action
of radiant heat, projected towards it from all sides, while it is
immersed in an atmosphere nearly saturated with its own vapours_.
Let it be clearly understood that I refer to the vapours as they rise
from the meat, and not to the vapour of burnt dripping, which Rumford
describes. The acrid properties of the products of such partial
dissociation are far better understood by modern chemists than they
were in Rumford’s time.
His water dripping-pan effectually prevents their formation. It is
still manufactured of the precise pattern shown in the drawing, copied
from Rumford’s, and cooks who understand their business at all use it
as a matter of course.
The few domestic fireplace-ovens that existed in Rumford’s time were
clumsily heated by raking some of the fire from the grate into a space
left below the oven. Those of the best modern kitcheners are heated by
flues going round them, generally starting from the top, which thus
attains the highest temperature. The radiation from this does the
‘browning’ for which Rumford’s blowpipes were designed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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