The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
This is a very fair question, and not difficult to answer. If both are
equally cooked, neither overdone nor underdone, they must contain,
weight for weight, exactly the same constituents in equally digestible
form, so far as chemical composition is concerned. Whether they will
actually be digested with equal facility and assimilated with equal
completeness depends upon something else not measurable by chemical
analysis, viz. the relish with which they are respectively eaten.
To some persons the undisguised fleshiness of the English slice,
especially if underdone, is very repugnant. To these the corresponding
morsel, cooked according to Gouffé rather than Mrs. Beeton, would be
more nutritious. To the carnivorous John Bull, who regards such dishes
as ‘nasty French messes’ of questionable composition, the slice of
unmistakable ox-flesh, from a visible joint, would obtain all the
advantages of appreciative mastication, and that sympathy between the
brain and the stomach which is so powerful that, when discordantly
exerted, it may produce the effects that are recorded in the case of
the sporting traveller who was invited by a Red Indian chief to a
‘dog-fight,’ and ate with relish the savoury dishes at what he supposed
to be a preliminary banquet. Digestion was tranquilly and healthfully
proceeding, under the soothing influence of the calumet, when he asked
the chief when the fight would commence. On being told that it was
over, and that, in the final ragoût he had praised so highly, the
last puppy-dog possessed by the tribe had been cooked in his honour,
the normal course of digestion of the honoured guest was completely
reversed.
Before leaving the subject of caramel, I should say a few words
about French coffee, or ‘Coffee as in France,’ of which we hear so
much. There are two secrets upon which depend the excellence of our
neighbours in the production of this beverage. First, economy in using
the water; second, flavouring with caramel. As regards the first, it
appears that English housewives have been demoralised by the habitual
use of tea, and apply to the infusion of coffee the popular formula for
that of tea, ‘a spoonful for each person and one for the pot.’
The French after-dinner coffee-cup has about one-third of the liquid
capacity of a full-sized English breakfast-cup, but the quantity
of solid coffee supplied to each cupful is more than equal to that
ordinarily allowed for the larger English measure of water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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