The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
The reason of this is simply that much or all of the fat is burnt
and wasted when only a thin film is spread on the bottom of the pan,
while no such waste occurs when the bath of fat is properly used. The
temperature at which the dissociation of fat _commences_ is below that
required for delicately browning the surface of the fish itself, or
of the flour or bread-crumbs, and therefore no fat is burnt away from
the bath, as it is by the over-heated portions of a merely greased
frying-pan; and as regards the quantity adhering to the fish itself,
this may be reduced to a minimum by withdrawing it from the bath when
_the whole_ is uniformly at the maximum cooking temperature, and
allowing the fluid fat to drain off at once. It may be supposed that
by complete immersion of the fish in the fat-bath, more fat will soak
into it, but such is not the case; the water amidst the fibres of the
fish is boiling and driving out steam so rapidly that no fat can enter
if the heat is well maintained to the last moment, and the frying not
continued too long. When cooked on the greased plate, one side is
necessarily cooling, and the fat settling down into the fish to occupy
the pores left vacuous by the condensing steam, while the other is
being heated from below.
The temperature of the fat-bath may be tested by the ordinary cook’s
method—that of throwing into it a small piece of bread-crumb about the
size of a nut. If it frizzles and produces large bubbles of steam, the
full temperature of frying in the hottest of fat is reached; if it
frizzles slightly, and only gives out small steam-bubbles, you have the
temperature demanded for slow frying.
The bath-frying demands separate supplies of fat[9]—one for fish,
another for cutlets and other similar kinds of meat, a third for such
goody-goodies as apple-fritters—a most wholesome and delicious dish,
too rarely seen on English tables. I suspect that the prevalence of the
greased frying-pan is the reason of its rarity. Cooked by this barbaric
device, apples are scarcely eatable, but when thin slices are immersed
in a bath of melted fat at a temperature of about 300° Fahr., the water
of their juice is suddenly boiled, and as this water is contained in
a multitude of little bladderlike cells, they burst, and the whole
structure is puffed out to a most delicate lightness, far more suitable
for following solid meats than soddened fruit enveloped in heavy
indigestible pudding-paste. Another advantage is that with proper
apparatus (wire basket, kettle, and store of special fat) the fritters
can be prepared and cooked in about one-tenth of the time demanded for
the preparation and cookery of an apple pudding or pie. A few seconds
of immersion in the fat-bath is sufficient.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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