The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
These methods of purification are not available in the kitchen, as oil
of vitriol is a vicious compound. During the siege of Paris some of the
Academicians devoted themselves very earnestly to the subject of the
purification of fat in order to produce what they termed ‘siege butter’
from the refuse of slaughter-houses, &c., and edible salad oils from
crude colza oil, from the rancid fish oils used by the leather-dresser,
&c. Those who are specially interested in the subject may find some
curious papers in the ‘Comptes Rendus’ of that period. In vol. lxxi.,
page 36, M. Boillot describes his method of mixing kitchen-stuff and
other refuse fat with lime-water, agitating the mixture when heated,
and then neutralising with an acid. The product thus obtained is
described as admirably adapted for culinary operations, and the method
is applicable to the purpose here under consideration.
Further on in the same volume is a ‘Note on Suets and Alimentary Fats’
by M. Dubrunfaut, who tells us that the most tainted of alimentary fats
and rancid oils may be deprived of their bad odours by ‘appropriate
frying.’ His method is to raise the temperature of the fat to 140°
to 150° Cent. (284° to 302° Fahr.) in a frying-pan; then cautiously
sprinkle upon it small quantities of water. The steam carries off
the volatile fatty acids which produce the rancidity in such as fish
oils, and also removes the neutral offensive fatty matters that are
decomposable by heat. In another paper by M. Fua this method is applied
to the removal of cellular tissue of crude fats from slaughter-houses.
It is really nothing more than the old farmhouse proceeding of
‘rendering’ lard, by frying the membranous fat until the membranous
matter is browned and aggregated into small nodules, which constitute
the ‘scratchings’—a delicacy greatly relished by our British ploughboys
at pig-killing time, but rather too rich in pork-fat to supply a
suitable meal for people of sedentary vocations.
The action of heat thus applied and long-continued is similar to that
of the strong sulphuric acid. The impurities of the fat are organic
matters more easily decomposable than the fat itself, or otherwise
stated, they are dissociated into carbon and water at about 300° Fahr.,
which is a lower temperature than that required for the dissociation of
the pure oil or fat. By maintaining this temperature, these compounds
become first caramelised, then carbonised nearly to blackness, when all
their powers of offensiveness vanish.
In the more violent factory process of purification by sulphuric acid
the similar action which occurs is due to the powerful affinity of
this acid for water: this may be strikingly shown by adding to thick
syrup or pounded sugar about its own bulk of oil of vitriol, when a
marvellous commotion occurs, and a magnified black cinder is produced
by the separation of the water from the sugar.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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