The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Gouffé says: ‘Fat is the best for frying; the light-coloured dripping
of roast meat, and the fat taken off broth are to be preferred. These
failing, beef suet, chopped fine and melted down on a slow fire,
without browning, will do very well; when the bottom of the stewpan can
be seen through the suet, it is sufficiently melted.’ He is no advocate
for lard, ‘as it always leaves an unpleasant coating of fat on whatever
is fried in it.’ Olive oil of the best quality is almost absolutely
tasteless, and having as high a boiling point as animal fats it is
the best of all frying media. In this country there is a prejudice
against the use of such oil. I have noticed at some of those humble but
most useful establishments where poor people are supplied with penny
or twopenny portions of well-cooked, good fish, that in the front is
an inscription stating ‘only the best beef-dripping is used in this
establishment.’ This means a repudiation of oil.
On my first visit to Arctic Norway I arrived before the garnering
and exportation of the spring cod harvest was completed. The packet
stopped at a score or so of stations on the Lofodens and the mainland.
Foggy weather was no impediment, as an experienced pilot free from
catarrh could steer direct to the harbour by ‘following his nose.’ Huge
cauldrons stood by the shore in which were stewing the last batches of
the livers of codfish caught a month before and exposed in the meantime
to the continuous Arctic sunshine. Their condition must be imagined,
as I abstain from description of details. The business then proceeding
was the extraction of the oil from these livers. It is, of course,
‘cod-liver oil,’ but is known commercially as ‘fish oil,’ or ‘cod oil.’
That which is sold by our druggists as cod-liver oil is described
in Norway as ‘medicine oil,’ and though prepared from the same raw
material, is extracted in a different manner. Only fresh livers are
used for this, and the best quality, the ‘cold-drawn’ oil, is obtained
by pressing the livers without stewing. Those who are unfortunately
familiar with this carefully-prepared, highly-refined product, know
that the fishy flavour clings to it so pertinaciously that all attempts
to completely remove it without decomposing the oil have failed. This
being the case, it is easily understood that the fish oil stewed so
crudely out of the putrid or semi-putrid livers must be nauseous
indeed. It is nevertheless used by some of the fish-fryers, and refuse
‘Gallipoli’ (olive oil of the worst quality) is sold for this purpose.
The oil obtained in the course of salting sardines, herrings, &c., is
also used.
Such being the case, it is not surprising that the use of oil for
frying should, like the oil itself, be in bad odour.
I dwell upon this because we are probably on what, if a fine writer, I
should call the ‘eve of a great revolution’ in respect to frying media.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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