The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Palm oil, though at present practically unknown in the kitchen, may
easily become an esteemed material for the frying-kettle. At present,
the familiar uses of palm oil in candle-making and for railway grease
will cause my suggestion to shock the nerves of many delicate people,
but these should remember that before palm oil was imported at all,
the material from which candles and soap were made, and by which
cart wheels and heavy machinery were greased, was tallow—_i.e._ the
fat of mutton and beef. The reason why our grandmothers did not use
candles for frying when short of dripping or suet was that the mutton
fat constituting the candle was impure, so are the yellow candles
and yellow grease in the axle-boxes of the railway carriages. This
vegetable fat is quite as inoffensive in itself, quite as wholesome,
and—sentimentally regarded—less objectionable, than the fat obtained
from the carcass of a slaughtered animal.
When common sense and true sentiment supplant mere unreasoning
prejudice, vegetable oils and vegetable fats will largely supplant
those of animal origin in every element of our dietary. We are but just
beginning to understand them. Chevreul, who was the first to teach us
the chemistry of fats, is still living, and we are only learning how to
make butter (not ‘inferior Dorset,’ but ‘choice Normandy’) without the
aid of dairy produce. There is, therefore, good reason for anticipating
that the inexhaustible supplies of oil obtainable from the vegetable
world—especially from tropical vegetation—will ere long be freely
available for kitchen uses, and the now popular product of the Chicago
hog factories will be altogether banished therefrom, and used only for
greasing cart-wheels and other machinery.
As a practical conclusion of this part of my subject, I will quote
from the ‘Oil Trade Review’ of this month, December 1884, the current
wholesale prices of some of the oils possibly available for frying
purposes: olive oil, from 43_l._ to 90_l._ per tun of 252 gallons;
cod oil, 36_l._ per tun; sardine or train (_i.e._ the oil that drains
from pilchards, herrings, sardines, &c., when salted), 27_l._ 10_s._
to 28_l._ per tun; cocoanut, from 35_l._ to 38_l._ per ton of 20 cwt.
(This, in the case of oil, is nearly the same as the measured tun.)
Palm, from 38_l._ to 40_l._ 10_s._ per ton; palm-nut or copra, 31_l._
10_s._ per ton; refined cotton-seed, 30_l._ 10_s._ to 31_l._ per ton;
lard, 53_l._ to 55_l._ per ton. The above are the extreme ranges of
each class. I have not copied the technical names and prices of the
intermediate varieties. One penny per lb. is = 9_l._ 6_s._ 8_d._ per
ton, or, in round numbers, 1_l._ per ton may be reckoned as 1/9th of a
penny per lb. Thus the present price of best refined cotton-seed oil
is 3½_d._ per lb.; of cocoanut oil, 3¾_d._; palm oil, from 3½_d._ to
4½_d._, while lard costs 6_d._ per lb. wholesale.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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