The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
It is evident at once that casein must exist in two forms, the soluble
and insoluble, so far as the common solvent, water, is concerned. It
exists in the soluble form, and completely dissolved in milk, and
insoluble in cheese. When precipitated in its insoluble or coagulated
form as the curd of new milk it carries with it the fatty matter or
cream, and therefore, in order to study its properties in a state of
purity, we must obtain it otherwise. This may be done by allowing the
fat globules of the milk to float to the surface, and then removing
them by separating the cream as by the ordinary dairy method. We thus
obtain in the skimmed milk a solution of casein, but there still
remains some of the fat. This may be removed by evaporating the
solution down to solidity, and then dissolving out the fat by means
of ether, which leaves the soluble casein behind. The adhering ether
being evaporated, we have a fairly pure specimen of casein in its
original or soluble form.
This, when dry, is an amber-coloured translucent substance, devoid of
odour, and insipid. The insipidity and absence of odour of the pure
and separated casein are noteworthy, as showing that the condition in
which it exists in milk is very different from that of the casein of
cheese. My object in pointing this out is to show that in the course
of the manufacture of cheese new properties are developed. Skim-milk—a
solution of casein—is tasteless and inodorous, while fresh cheese,
whether made from skimmed or whole milk, has a very decided flavour and
odour.
If we now add some of our dry casein to water, it dissolves, forming a
yellowish viscid fluid, which, on evaporation, becomes covered with a
slight film of insoluble casein, which may be readily drawn off. Some
of my readers will recognise in this description the resemblance of a
now well-known domestic preparation of soluble casein, condensed milk,
where it is mixed with much cream, and in the ordinary preparation also
much sugar. The cream dilutes the yellowness, but does not quite mask
it, and the viscidity is shown by the strings which follow the spoon
when a spoonful is lifted. If a concentrated solution of pure casein is
exposed to the air it rapidly putrefies, and passes through a series of
changes that I must not tarry to describe, beyond stating that ammonia
is given off, and some crystalline substances, such as _leucine_,
_tyrosine_, &c., very interesting to the physiological chemist, but not
important in the kitchen, are formed.
A solution of casein in water is not coagulated by boiling; it may be
repeatedly evaporated to dryness and redissolved. Upon this depends
the practicability of preserving milk by evaporating it down, or
‘condensing.’
This condensed milk, however, loses a little; its albumen is
sacrificed, as everybody will understand who has dipped a spoon in
freshly-boiled milk and observed the skin which the spoon removes from
the surface. This is coagulated albumen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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