The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Mr. E. D. Girdlestone writes as follows (I quote with permission): ‘As
regards the “cheese _fondu_,” your recipe for which has enabled me to
turn cheese to practical account as _food_, you may be glad to hear
that it has become a common dish in our microscopic _ménage_. Indeed
cheese, which formerly was poison to me, is now alike pleasant and
digestible. But some of your readers may like to know that the addition
of _bread-crumbs_ is, in my judgment at least, a great improvement,
giving greater lightness to the compost, and removing the harshness
of flavour otherwise incidental to a mixture which comprises so large
a proportion of cheese. We (my wife and I) think this a _great_
improvement.’
I have received two other letters making, quite independently, the same
suggestion concerning the bread-crumbs. I have tried the addition,
and agree with Mr. Girdlestone that it is a great improvement as food
for such as ourselves, who are brain-workers, and for all others
whose occupations are at all sedentary. The undiluted _fondu_ is too
nutritious for us, though suitable for the mountaineer.
The chief difficulty in preparing this dish conveniently is that of
obtaining suitable vessels for the final frying or baking, as each
portion should be poured into, and fried or baked in, a separate dish,
so that each may, as in Switzerland, have his own _fondu_ complete,
and eat it from the dish as it comes from the fire. As demand creates
supply, our ironmongers, &c., will soon learn to meet this demand if it
arises. I have written to Messrs. Griffiths & Browett, of Birmingham,
large manufacturers of what is technically called ‘hollow ware’—_i.e._
vessels of all kinds knocked up from a single piece of metal without
any soldering—and they have made suitable _fondu_ dishes according to
my specification, and supply them to the shopkeepers.
The bicarbonate of potash is an original novelty that will possibly
alarm some of my non-chemical readers. I advocate its use for two
reasons: first, it effects a better solution of the casein by
neutralising the free lactic acid that inevitably exists in milk
supplied to towns, and any free acid that may remain in the cheese.
At a farmhouse, where the milk is just drawn from the cow, it is
unnecessary for this purpose, as such new milk is itself slightly
alkaline.
My second reason is physiological, and of greater weight. Salts of
potash are necessary constituents of human food. They exist in all
kinds of wholesome vegetables and fruits, and in the juices of _fresh_
meat, but _they are wanting in cheese_, having, on account of their
great solubility, been left behind in the whey.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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