The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing: Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' AssociationSmith, Watson
Science
The Chemistry of Hat Manufacturing: Lectures Delivered Before the Hat Manufacturers' Association
Smith, Watson
Hats
and it is dyed a fine red, composed of a tannate of antimony and
Magenta. You now see, no doubt, the necessity of sharply discriminating
between two classes of colouring matters, which we may term _colour
acids_ and _colour bases_ respectively. There are but few acids that act
like tannic acid in fixing basic aniline dyestuffs, but oleic acid and
other fatty acids are of the number. A curious question might now be
asked, namely: "Could the acid colour Alizarin, if fixed on cotton
cloth, combine with a basic aniline colour, _e.g._ Aniline Violet, and
act as a mordant for it, thus fixing it?" The answer is, "Certainly";
and thus an Alizarin Purple would be produced, whilst if Magenta were
used in place of Aniline Violet, an Alizarin Red of a crimson tone would
result.
_Chrome Mordanting of Wool and Fur._--In studying this subject I would
recommend a careful perusal of the chapter on "Mordants" in J.J.
Hummel's book, entitled _The Dyeing of Textile Fabrics_, and pages 337
to 340 of Bowman's work on _The Wool-Fibre_.
In the treatment of wool or fur with bichrome (potassium bichromate) we
start with an acid salt, a bichromate (K_{2}Cr_{2}O_{7}) and a strong
oxidising agent, and we finish with a basic substance, namely, oxide of
chromium, in the fibres of the wool or fur. If we desire to utilise the
whole of the chromic acid in our mordanting liquor, we must add to it
some sulphuric acid to set free the chromic acid from the potassium with
which it is combined. Bichromate of potash with sulphuric acid gives
sulphate of potash and chromic acid. The question of the proper
exhaustion of bichromate baths is an important economic one. Now we must
remember that this chromic acid (CrO_{3}) oxidises our wool or fur, and
must oxidise it before it can of itself act as a mordant by being
reduced in the process to hydrated chromic oxide, Cr_{2}O_{3} + 3
H_{2}O. [2 CrO_{3} (chromic acid) = Cr_{2}O_{3} (chromic oxide) + O_{3}
(oxygen).] It is this hydrated chromic oxide in the fibre that yields
with the Haematein of the logwood your logwood black dye. Mr. Jarmain
finds that it is not safe to use more than 3 per cent. (of the weight of
the wool) of bichromate; if 4 per cent. be used, the colour becomes
impaired, whilst if 12 per cent. be employed, the wool cannot be dyed at
all with logwood, the phenomenon known as "over-chroming" being the
result of such excessive treatment. I think there is no doubt, as
Professor Hummel says, that the colouring matter is oxidised and
destroyed in such over-chroming, but I also think that there can be no
doubt that the wool itself is also greatly injured and incapacitated for
taking up colour. Now the use of certain coal-tar black dyes in place of
logwood obviates this use of bichrome, and thus the heavy stress on the
fibre in mordanting with it. It also effects economy in avoiding the use
of bichrome, as well as of copper salts; but even thus, of course, other
problems have to be solved before it can be finally decided which is
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